You got to be kidding?

[Randall Klein]

I remember Mark Lelchook (A56) looking into other solutions and options last spring. I believe he was going to approach NHRA at Las Vegas to see if a lower cost option might be acceptable....can anybody find out what happened over that?

I find it curious that NHRA finds a "problem" after all these years, a serious problem according to them, and yet allows almost a year before mandating a costly solution. I have to think someone "discovered" a revenue stream disguised as a safety item.

My solution: if your collector hits someone or causes any delay, you are DQ from event

[Johnny Gray]

I don't understand why it has to be NHRA approved. There are many things on our race cars that are required but don't have to be purchased from a approved source. I'm fine with a tether but I think I can make my own. NHRA could come out with some guide lines. My problem is the over priced approved source. Now if it pick my car up 5 hundredths that would be another story.

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by older racer

hi, they claim , they have a patent or getting one. those take about 2 to 3 years to get. they are not givin out on a whim! they have to have a patent lawer do a search , then the patent process can begin. just sounds soo fishy!! nhra can let us make our own! we'd have to give them a kickback prob?

A patent takes around 4 to 6 years to get issued, if valid.
I am currently a co-author in 3 patents and they were submitted 3 years ago and it will take about 2 more until issued.

Like I said before, the tether concept and means, is not patentable. The components being used, are not either.
If you just look at excerpts of the definition of a "tether" in Wikipedia, you can see why.

A tether is a cord, fixture, or signal that anchors something movable to a reference point which may be fixed or moving. There are a number of applications for tethers: balloons, kites, tethered wind-energy conversion systems, anchors, tethered water-flow energy conversion systems, towing, animal constraint, and power-kiting. Tethers may break by various means; if a tether is a signal, then interruption by signal barriers breaks the tether. If the tether is a cord or rope, then upon reaching the breaking strength of the tether, the tether fails in its function. Failure modes for tethers are considered when designing arrangements where a tether is needed. When a tether or line breaks suddenly, backlash of the segments may cause severe damage or loss of life; safety links are sometimes used to prevent excessive tension in a tether involved in towing objects or persons, like in the towing of sailplanes; the safety link in a tether is thus a tether itself. Tethering objects to prevent theft of an object like a computer at a school or library is now commonly seen.

[FED 387]

just got off the phone with Lokar--- would not commit to any idea of pricing at this time--also no delivery dates as of now---still working on getting production up and running only have done prelimanery production at this point---- will let me know when things will be available--FED 387

[Dion Hildebrandt]

I emailed Pat C this morning and he got back to me right away. To avoid the tether all that would be needed is a 1" weld per primary tube....quite a bit cheaper than a $200 set of "links and cuffs".

[Greg Hill]

Would be interesting to know where this comes from. Two things, follow the money and who benefits.

[Jeff Lee]

im considering a 4" square section of plywood mounted behind the collector. The plywood will be affixed to the floorboard with some angle iron brackets on the top half and some big springs mounted to the lower section that will stretch to the front bumper brackets.
I'll just drill a hole in the center of the plywood for exhaust to escape; starting with a 1" bore and maybe increasing it to 2". That will satisfy the DB requirements that will be next and I will have a cheap way of slowing my car down and avoiding the AHFS.

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

im considering a 4" square section of plywood mounted behind the collector. The plywood will be affixed to the floorboard with some angle iron brackets on the top half and some big springs mounted to the lower section that will stretch to the front bumper brackets.
I'll just drill a hole in the center of the plywood for exhaust to escape; starting with a 1" bore and maybe increasing it to 2". That will satisfy the DB requirements that will be next and I will have a cheap way of slowing my car down and avoiding the AHFS.

You forgot the Plywood must be SFI approved for flammability!

[Donnie Moore Jr.]

I'd be more interested in paying $ 200 for something to help get my collectors off .there have been times I'd pay $200 for someone else to take them off ..sure cannot see paying to keep something on that is double bolted and requires hammer& chisel to remove. JMO

[Bob Gullett]

xxxxx