Sleeveing a block - Page 2

FED 387 · 06-24-2010, 10:54 AM

we have used Darton sleeves with success in many applications---Comp 387

Todd Bailey · 06-24-2010, 03:55 PM

Had my engine builder tell me many years ago that if I brought him an engine run on rubber mounts and an engine run with steel mounts, he could tell which was which from looking at the mains. Rubber mounts and tie it down!!

Alan Warman · 06-25-2010, 12:36 AM

Jerry
Do you remember were you found the sleeves. Every body I talked to, keeps putting that custom word in front of the part number. Mellings has a sleeve but I do not think the O D is big enough. The bore size of the 350 is 4.057 and the sleeve is 4.062. So far LA Sleeves has the best price. So from all the info from every body. Between chassis flex and solid mounts is what killed the block.

JRyan · 06-25-2010, 08:05 PM

Alan,

LA Sleeves is where I got mine. Not cheap, but they don't require any super trick cylinder wall finishes to get them to seal. The non-windowed block with these sleeves is plenty strong even for the 3550 lb. Superstocker with bumper draggin' wheelies, so you shouldn't have a problem as long as your chassis doesn't flex. Good luck!

Jerry

Daran Summerton · 06-26-2010, 01:31 PM

Is this the roller cam motor? Either way 307's don't need anything done to them. You have a problem. The old wagon (roller motor) is still together after 8 years and can still set the record at will. May just start fresh with a known good virgin core motor. If your not running the roller cam motor I reccommend you do at this point. Call with any questions Daran

Run to Rund · 06-27-2010, 11:43 AM

The 403 guys on ROP generally run a main cap girdle to help hold the windowed main block together. J&S and others have girdles. I suspect the DX block is overkill and very heavy, but a 350 block sleeved might be best. Of course, a block with .921 lifters would help with a radical profile cam vs. the .842" lifter blocks.

Jeff Lee · 06-27-2010, 12:29 PM

But lifter bores must be for the make/year claimed.

SSDiv6 · 06-27-2010, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Run to Rund

The 403 guys on ROP generally run a main cap girdle to help hold the windowed main block together. J&S and others have girdles. I suspect the DX block is overkill and very heavy, but a 350 block sleeved might be best. Of course, a block with .921 lifters would help with a radical profile cam vs. the .842" lifter blocks.

Jeff is correct, you have to run the OEM lifter diameter. You cannot modify the oil pan externally in Stock Eliminator, therefore, you cannot run the commercial girdle available for Olds engines. The best bet is like Jerry and other have done; sleeve an early high nickle Oldsmobile block or find a NASCAR block with the small mains and small bore.

JRyan · 06-27-2010, 06:05 PM

Speaking of chassis flex; If Daran's flexible flyer wasn't having block problems with the way that thing twisted, nobody should. We haven't had any problems with the 307 blocks in any stockers either, but it might be that Alan has a problem peculiar to his car, or just bad luck. In any case, I know the sleeved 350 blocks work very well for us.

Jerry

Alan Warman · 06-27-2010, 10:00 PM

Well if I did not have bad luck, I would not have any luck at all. I don't think its chassis flex but I could be wrong. Here is a couple of things I noticed when tearing it down. The solid mount's are touching the frame. And the balancer I use is the stock solid cast hub. No rubber at all

06-24-2010, 10:54 AM	#11
FED 387 VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 3,400 Likes: 482 Liked 320 Times in 172 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block we have used Darton sleeves with success in many applications---Comp 387

06-24-2010, 03:55 PM	#12
Todd Bailey Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Houston Posts: 309 Likes: 26 Liked 29 Times in 15 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block Had my engine builder tell me many years ago that if I brought him an engine run on rubber mounts and an engine run with steel mounts, he could tell which was which from looking at the mains. Rubber mounts and tie it down!!

06-25-2010, 12:36 AM	#13
Alan Warman Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: San Angelo Tx Posts: 231 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block Jerry Do you remember were you found the sleeves. Every body I talked to, keeps putting that custom word in front of the part number. Mellings has a sleeve but I do not think the O D is big enough. The bore size of the 350 is 4.057 and the sleeve is 4.062. So far LA Sleeves has the best price. So from all the info from every body. Between chassis flex and solid mounts is what killed the block. __________________ Alan Warman STK 4107

06-25-2010, 08:05 PM	#14
JRyan Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Aberdeen SD Posts: 645 Likes: 30 Liked 112 Times in 31 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block Alan, LA Sleeves is where I got mine. Not cheap, but they don't require any super trick cylinder wall finishes to get them to seal. The non-windowed block with these sleeves is plenty strong even for the 3550 lb. Superstocker with bumper draggin' wheelies, so you shouldn't have a problem as long as your chassis doesn't flex. Good luck! Jerry

06-26-2010, 01:31 PM	#15
Daran Summerton Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Las Vegas nv Posts: 600 Likes: 18 Liked 66 Times in 37 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block Is this the roller cam motor? Either way 307's don't need anything done to them. You have a problem. The old wagon (roller motor) is still together after 8 years and can still set the record at will. May just start fresh with a known good virgin core motor. If your not running the roller cam motor I reccommend you do at this point. Call with any questions Daran

06-27-2010, 11:43 AM	#16
Run to Rund Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 583 Likes: 8 Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block The 403 guys on ROP generally run a main cap girdle to help hold the windowed main block together. J&S and others have girdles. I suspect the DX block is overkill and very heavy, but a 350 block sleeved might be best. Of course, a block with .921 lifters would help with a radical profile cam vs. the .842" lifter blocks.

06-27-2010, 12:29 PM	#17
Jeff Lee VIP Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Anthem, Arizona Posts: 2,766 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block But lifter bores must be for the make/year claimed. __________________ Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX

06-27-2010, 06:05 PM	#19
JRyan Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Aberdeen SD Posts: 645 Likes: 30 Liked 112 Times in 31 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block Speaking of chassis flex; If Daran's flexible flyer wasn't having block problems with the way that thing twisted, nobody should. We haven't had any problems with the 307 blocks in any stockers either, but it might be that Alan has a problem peculiar to his car, or just bad luck. In any case, I know the sleeved 350 blocks work very well for us. Jerry

06-27-2010, 10:00 PM	#20
Alan Warman Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: San Angelo Tx Posts: 231 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block Well if I did not have bad luck, I would not have any luck at all. I don't think its chassis flex but I could be wrong. Here is a couple of things I noticed when tearing it down. The solid mount's are touching the frame. And the balancer I use is the stock solid cast hub. No rubber at all __________________ Alan Warman STK 4107