Open trailer setup

[Ed Fernandez]

Think about getting the trailer with 5# axles with 16" trailer tires.

[Sean Marconette]

Whatever you do mount the winch so as it will not grow legs! I mounted mine under the trailer, and cut a hole where the rollers for the cable is above the steel floor. I have a recessed storage box in the front in between the D-rings. The recessed storage box is where the battery is located. I welded a structure across the underside and that is what the winch is mounted to. Someone would have to work hard to get it.

1. 18'
2. Steel Deck
3. Dovetail
4. Pull out Steel long ramps
5. Electric Brakes on both axles
6. Recessed 2.5'X2.5'X 14" storage box
7. Breakaway
8. Good digital proportional brake controller
9. Sway control
10. Load distribution hitch
11. SPARE TIRE

These are not in order, but are what I feel are needed. The more storage that you have in the trailer, means less time loading and unloading the truck to go to and from the races. And also a good place to store the load leveling bars and sway when not used.

Good Luck

Sean

[P Bailey]

Rick You might give Rock's trailers a call. I have dealt with Jim the owner and is a very nice fellow. His parts manager is a racer also.He is in the Columbus area. Good luck. Phil

[Rick Angles]

Phil, I was at Rock's Sat morning looking at the trailers. Those are what I was thinking about. Nice place and the salesman that helped me, Jimmy, was nice to work with. Answered all my questions and took his time with me.

[Rick Angles]

Sean, everything on your list I had in mind with the exception of the sway control and spare. I have thought about the LD bars, as I have found some used at times. A few people have told me how nice it is towing with them, even if you don't really need them. Also the box is a good idea. I thought with this thread on winches, I would get a few ideas on boxes at the same time.

[Robert Simpson]

Everything that was said above is the way to go. I have had to modify some things over the years on mine. Like make the ramps pull out vs loading them under the trailer (next to impossible to get out in tight quarters). I also would recomend wheel chocks so that you put the car in the same spot each time. Also once you get the car set on the trailer, paint a line down the deck of the trailer next to the tires, this will speed up loading the car by yourself (you will have a reference). I also installed straps that go over the rear tires, this keeps me from having to climb under the car to tie it down (especially when it is raining). I use regular straps on the front. I have some other things that I have to do when time allows but everything that has been said by others is the right thing to do. Have fun. By the way what class will you be running with your starfire?

Robert

[Bobby DiDomenico]

Originally Posted by Rick Angles

Thanks for all the tips / advise guys.
Never thought of city codes. My brother in law lives in another part of town and his division doesn't allow trailers,boats,RV's setting around. So he has his john boat / trailer taking up space in his garage, out of sight.

Rick,
Here you can have a 25' single axle boat trailer with boat on your drive, you can also place a 50' enclosed trailer in your side or back yard. (I cannot say that your neighbors will speak with you anymore...) But an empty 16' car trailer on your drive is illegal because it has two axles and is an eyesore.

[Michael Beard]

Mine is an open deck "Econo Trailer", which I make good use of. It's my "lift"... great for changing oil, headers, etc. I do have blocks on the front which makes it a snap to know that you're pulled forward to exactly the right place, and with the pull-out ramps, I drive right up, just looking out the door to see about 4 rows of diamond plate to know I'm good left to right. I've gotten busted first round at Pageland and been on the trailer and out the gate before the bye run went down! LOL (Had to be at MIR the next morning)

Made for a great observation deck at Atco the other week, too!

[Mike Carr]

For what it's worth.

When we started racing in 2000 and were looking for a trailer, my dad had some ideas about what he wanted, but talked to a lot of other people about stuff, too. In hindsight, it was a big mistake. Everyone told him "Oh, 16' is plenty of trailer". Well, those people, most of them, have their rear tires come to the back of the trailer, so the whole trunk hangs off the back. One racer even had the racecar tailights wired to work with the trailer lights. Also, "A 3' tongue is plenty". Well, yeah...if you're not planning on putting anything big (toolbox, bike rack, generator, etc) on it. If you do, you're not making any tight turns with that setup. We ended up getting an 18', and a co-worker gave dad a toolbox to mount on the trailer. Not huge...about 5' wide, 2' deep and 2' tall, give or take. But, it was free and worked well. We were able to put our bicycle between the front of the racecar and the toolbox. The car(s) we raced, 1985 Sunbird FWD Stocker, barely fit on the trailer. Had we had a bigger car, it too would have hung off the back. My dad said instead of listening to others, he has a definate idea on a trailer for the next time if he buys another. 20' deck, minimum and 5' tongue, minimum. That way, you can mount a toolbox on either the deck or tongue, and still have room for other stuff (generator, winch (we didn't have one), scooter, bicycles, etc.

[Rick Angles]

Thanks for all the ideas and comments so far. I will list the setup I have taken from your comments later.

Back to my original quest about winches, I see a lot of you use a battery to run the winch. Couldn't you run the wires to the tow vehicle battery? Maybe use the 7 way plug or add a second plug for the winch?