Just found this great idea for tie-down

[Ed Fernandez]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

I'm failing to see what the difference would be if you had 4 standard ratcheting straps on the car and the front straps came loose or were magically severed. You would still have the same problem, right?

These bar type tiedowns are just an open ended hook.If the front strap/straps come loose and the car moves back,As Barry Polly said,they will drop off.A safety tie down strap won't do that.Clear now?Look at the pic of the tie down closely.
Now if they're hooked over the top of the loop on the car they might not fall off.
This is all hypothetical anyway.No matter how you tie a car down you have to make it as fool proof as possible.

[Eddies66]

I use the Mac's over the wheel tie-downs, I am getting too ole to practice to be miserable.

[Chad Rhodes]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

I'm failing to see what the difference would be if you had 4 standard ratcheting straps on the car and the front straps came loose or were magically severed. You would still have the same problem, right?

the straps have a clip to keep them attached. these do not, if they go slack they could just fall off.

[chasman]

Wow , you guys can be a tough crowd, I'm the guy that makes these things and we,ve sold over 100 prs now with no reported problems. If you hook them with opening down they will not fall off, as for galling , squeaking , the only way that could happen is if they were loose enuf to allow the car to move side to side, all they actually can do is slap each other in a vertical motion when traveling. I,m not trying to sell you anything, just trying to set the record straight. Have a happy holiday season!!!

[Scotty D]

hey jeff it's scott,i had a thought about mark's comment on this why not where they cross coat these extenders with a plastic or rubber tool handle coating,if you are concerned with gulling.as an electrician that uses this type of product to coat worn tool handles this is what this is for insulating against.

Ed, To unload the straps it has to move about a foot. Rocking in park will not unload them. Fortunately we have never had that happen. We X the front and rear with the winch up front too.


Nice product Chasman!

[Jeff Lee]

What I like is that I could use these with a loop which is forward of my axle housing, maybe along the frame rail. I have a short WB car and a short Lo-Boy trailer with hardly any overhang at the rear. It's always a pain to get the straps on the rear end and still make the cinching work on a short area.
Once I get my car back I can make measurements for the steel straps you make and determine where to put the loops for the best fit.

[Ken Keir]

Years ago Joe Clark and Jim Morgan used Duct Tape and taped 2in x 1/8x 30in to the end of the ratchet strap and it did the same thing and it worked great plus it was cheap.

Ken Keir

[Bernie Cunningham]

Heck, I built me own 10 years ago out of 1/2" rod and have never had a problem.
Mark, are you kidding me, it's gonna rub thru 1/2" steel going down the road ???
I like to tie my chassis down, rather than the rear end, don't need the excessive wear of road mileage on the suspension pieces. I also re-adjust my shocks to full stiff as I believe the car will bounce like a SOB in the rear, anything past the last axle on ya trailer will get a really bumpy ride!

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by Bernie Cunningham

Heck, I built me own 10 years ago out of 1/2" rod and have never had a problem.
Mark, are you kidding me, it's gonna rub thru 1/2" steel going down the road ???
I like to tie my chassis down, rather than the rear end, don't need the excessive wear of road mileage on the suspension pieces. I also re-adjust my shocks to full stiff as I believe the car will bounce like a SOB in the rear, anything past the last axle on ya trailer will get a really bumpy ride!

Nope, I'm not Bernie. Just don't like it. I 'm an open trailer guy and I don't like a source of noise and possible burrs from rubbing.
My theory , having spent many years towing on the Cross Bronx Expressway, where it looks like the Air Force conducts bombing practice, is to secure the front tight, preferable with a support under the front cross, and let the rear bounce a little.
If you want the rear to never move, you'll need (A) to pull the the suspension down excessively, or (B) place stanchions under the rear frame and tighten securly so it doesn't rub, and you know how I feel about that..