propotioning valve ?

[Ed Wright]

If it is a race car, you do not want the rear brakes locking first. Lot more traction on the rear than the skinny fronts.

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

If it is a race car, you do not want the rear brakes locking first. Lot more traction on the rear than the skinny fronts.

I cant imagine being able to lock the rears up before the fronts. It is most likely easier to lock the fronts than the rears due to the weight of the driveline plus the car being under power. . You don't want the front brakes doing all the work either. If you have 4 wheel discs the brakes work evenly.

[SPS]

OK.

First, Ed is correct.
The proportioning valve should be for the rear brakes. Can be in the rear line wherever you wish to install it, locationwise.

Reason, again, as Ed says, you definately don't want the rear brakes locking up before the fronts. You will swap ends before you can think about it.

Those of you that have the valve open (off), can possibly be for a couple reasons. One, if foot braking, you won't have enough pressure to hold the rear wheels to leave on the converter. Also, this can be by having different (smaller) rear brakes on the rear.

In all the cars I have and do build, I install the valve. I'd rather see someone have to open it up some than not have it and lock the rear brakes.

Now, I have been a Strange dealer for longer that I'd want to admit, so if there is some misunderstanding of info re installation, I' d like you to send me either a PM or e-mail me at info@smithperformance.com and I'll follow up.

hope this helps.

FJ

[js72mav]

Thanks for all the help guys. Here is what I have, I have a 1972 ford maverick with aftermarket discs up front and stock drums on the rear. I have a stock master cylinder and stock proportioning valve / distribution block. I have a lot of drag on the front wildwood brakes. What would you do to correct the problem? I already tried brand new calipers and it is exactly the same. Just trying to learn how all this stuff works together, thanks!

[Dave Noll]

...

[SPS]

A good possibility of the dragging front brakes is the factory master cylinder having a residual valve built in it.
This is to keep the stock brake pistons in contact with the rotor so little travel (ie pedal movement) is necessary to make them work.

My suggestion would be to replace the master with the mopar style available from Wilwood.

We use and sell lots of them with no problem.

FJ

[js72mav]

Thanks, I will replace it. That does make sense. Thanks for your help!!

[Ed Wright]

If you have an F body like mine ('93/'02) FJ has a great master cylinder kit with the MOPAR cylinder, mounting plate, firewall brace and instructions for drilling the pedal to correct leverage. Works great.
He offers a lot of great stuff for these cars.

[MLP]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

If you have an F body like mine ('93/'02) FJ has a great master cylinder kit with the MOPAR cylinder, mounting plate, firewall brace and instructions for drilling the pedal to correct leverage. Works great.
He offers a lot of great stuff for these cars.

And PLEASE make sure you have the proper brake rod retention device in place so nothing terrible happens. I know two people that have failed to do so and are lucky they survived.

[sst1226]

So I have a question. 69 nova with stock manual disc brake master cylinder 1 1/8" piston and stock proportioning valve, strange 4 piston caliper front brakes up front and getting ready to swap drums out back for 4 piston discs in the rears. Skinnys up front, 14x32s out back.
Will i have to run a proportioning valve to the rear to prevent too much bias/ possibly lock up the rears?
I foot brake the car if that makes any difference, usually leave off the foot brake at 4000rpm.