battery charging between rounds?

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

No, it has a 160 thermostat in it. It's still a street car if you will. This summer we did the major changes to get it to run under ... gears, converter, cam, headers, wheels/tires, tune, etc. Now we can start tweaking and an electric water pump is next this winter and we'll do the plate then.

Scott

Scott, you might try (to go fast for heads-ups) keeping the engine over 180 deg, and icing the intake manifold. On my chassis dyno the all aluminium LS engines don't respond to lower coolant temps like a normal sbc, LT1, etc. They were more forgiving, making the same power between 180 & 200 deg. Guys at the local test n tunes at the track hot lap their cars without slowing down at all. I would try a 180 'stat if I were you.
Sure be worth testing.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Scott,
In Pure Stock no electric pumps or drives.
from page 47 2013 rule book
FAN,GENERATOR,WATER PUMP: Must be connected and operable at all times.Belts must be tight enough to drive equipment in a satisfactory manner and without excessive or noticable slippage. Must retain original factory produced fan.Stock size and material pulley must be retained. Water pump must remain stock. Electric fan may be added.

Mike Taylor 3601

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Ed,
I was wondering would those LS's your talking about not responding to cooler water temp, could that be in the tuning? could they be rich and the higher temps lean them down to where they run better?

Mike Taylor 3601

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601

Ed,
I was wondering would those LS's your talking about not responding to cooler water temp, could that be in the tuning? could they be rich and the higher temps lean them down to where they run better?

Mike Taylor 3601

Mike, it seems to be more aluminum blocks. I first noticed it when I went roundy-round dirt track racing in the '80s. At first around here we had iron block 350"s on gasoline, and most had Brodix heads. They liked to run cool just like my drag cars did. When we went to 410" full blown sprint cars with aluminum blocks I found on the dyno it didn't care for cold water. Liked to run between 180 and about 210. I attributed that to methanol fuel. Later when the LS1 came out, I saw the same thing with them on gasoline. I then thought it was something to do with aluminum blocks. Maybe I'm wrong, but tuning didn't make them like to run any colder. The GM factory computers correct for coolant temps. There is a table for P.E. (WOT) fueling corrections versus coolant temps as well as air temps. I tried tuning for max torque at 160, but if you warm them up the power came up. Guys seem to want to use 160 deg 'stats in those just like they always did with older engines. I usually just set their cooling fans to keep them around 180. I think he should test that on his car. Can't hurt, he may learn someting the others don't know.

[cad]

For those that dont need to carry weight, why run the Optima battery @ 38lbs? $187 racer discount.

I've been running this battery in my car for about 7 years @ 26lbs.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Odyssey+Batter...PC925/10002/-1
$180 with racer discount at Jegs.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925.htm
Oddyssey is also a military spec battery sold under a different packaging.
I put my Harley trickle charger on it during the week. It cranks my 12:1 385 very quickly.

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Scott, you might try (to go fast for heads-ups) keeping the engine over 180 deg, and icing the intake manifold. On my chassis dyno the all aluminium LS engines don't respond to lower coolant temps like a normal sbc, LT1, etc. They were more forgiving, making the same power between 180 & 200 deg. Guys at the local test n tunes at the track hot lap their cars without slowing down at all. I would try a 180 'stat if I were you.
Sure be worth testing.

Thanks Ed. We do ice the intake between runs to keep it from going into heat soak and pulling timing. That's interesting that they make the same power even when they are warmer. Yes, we will experiment with the 180.

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601

Scott,
In Pure Stock no electric pumps or drives.
from page 47 2013 rule book
FAN,GENERATOR,WATER PUMP: Must be connected and operable at all times.Belts must be tight enough to drive equipment in a satisfactory manner and without excessive or noticable slippage. Must retain original factory produced fan.Stock size and material pulley must be retained. Water pump must remain stock. Electric fan may be added.

Mike Taylor 3601

What about the Meziere street pumps for the LS1 Mike? They bolt in the stock location, use the stock belt routing, etc. We already have electric fans on the C5 ... I'll just have to figure out how to turn them on manually between rounds.

Scott

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

Thanks Ed. We do ice the intake between runs to keep it from going into heat soak and pulling timing. That's interesting that they make the same power even when they are warmer. Yes, we will experiment with the 180.

Don't know who tuned your computer, but properly done it won't pull timing from a hot manifold. Cold manifolds are faster, but you shouldn't have to ice it between rounds in normal "bracket mode". Just when you need every last hundredth.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Tar Heel

What about the Meziere street pumps for the LS1 Mike? They bolt in the stock location, use the stock belt routing, etc. We already have electric fans on the C5 ... I'll just have to figure out how to turn them on manually between rounds.

Scott

Scott, all you have to do is install a toggle switch that grounds the fan relays when "on ".
I would not recommend using it all the time. The computer turns them off about 45 MPH because they would block ram air above that speed. They just "windmill" at in the ram air at higher MPH.
I program the fans to come on at a given temp with the car shut off. Turn off is by either temp or time ( seconds). Automatic that way.

[Rob Petrie E395]

If you don't want to fool around figuring out which wires to ground the fan relays and avoid cutting and splicing the wiring harness. SLP Engeneering out of Toms River NJ used to sell a setup that just plugs into the factory connections and you run the harness with the switch on it inside the car. Casper Electronics might still make them too. The switch has a I think 2 settings one to run like factory and the PCM controls it just like it did from the factory. And the other setting on the switch overrides it to make them run all the time to cool the car down between rounds.