Is a Mexican Block Worth the Trouble?

[Paul Precht]

When filling I use Halco Machine Grout and leave the block sit for at least a month with the mains and both heads torqued, then I bore and hone. If you're in a hurry it becomes a compromise situation.

[FireSale]

Got an email from this fella and it's still for sale. He says it was last bored 50 over. The NHRA limit is 80 over, so is this block weakened if it's a total of 60 over stock?

Dale

[HR9121]

I ran a 302 Mexican block in my hr/sst car a couple years ago, it was 60 over and not filled. Made over 400 passes with never a problem and it turned 77-7800 when running 1/4 mile.

[Pat Cook]

Is the Ford Motorsport block legal?

Part number M6010BOSS302K

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Pat Cook

Is the Ford Motorsport block legal?

Part number M6010BOSS302K

That's the interesting part. it's not a BOSS block. It's a 302 replacement block made in Mexico and used by Ford for a lot of warranty stuff. It's a little stronger that the stock 302 because it's a bit thicker and has beefier mains, they are still 2 bolt, though. Bore, stroke and deck height are stock equivalent 302. Just stronger.

It's still for sale and has only been bored out the 50 over. I'm going to look at it next week. It's a little more sane for me as a hobby racer on my first build.

And, yes, the 6010 is legal in SS.

Dale

[Dyno]

If it is .050 over already, save your money and try and find a standard bore block. He is selling it for a reason, usually not good.

[SStockDart]

I read up on Mexican Blocks before using one in my street rod...(55 F100)....please understand that this engine is intended to "sound good" and I don't care how fast it it.....it is a 302.....I understand that the Mexican block is better because it has more nickel (SP) content....I don't know why that is better, it is just what I was told.....I never run the streetrod over 6,000 so this might not be a good example...no sleeves, no light weight parts....."It sounds really fast........but it isn't".....LOL (that is what street rods are supposed to do)

[SStockDart]

The Mexican block can be identified by, for example, C8AM stamped on the block (unlike the C8OE or C8AE). The M in the # is for the Mexican block. They have a higher nickle content for strength and wider main bearing caps. Buying a Ford racing block might be a better option. They are available for under $300 if you can't find the mexican block. They are fairly rare.

easy Id on a mexican block is the two large humps cast into the block, right below the heads. They only had a higher nickel content.

Many have the belief that Mexican means something sub-standard to US standards....that is not the case...These blocks meet the standards of Ford Motor Company or they would not use them....it is that simple.

[goinbroke2]

.050 on a windsor? I'd be sonic checking the thrust side before I laid any coin down, I don't like over .030. they're thinwall castings.

[Alex Denysenko]

Originally Posted by FireSail

Thanks for the quick replies. My car will probably be SSGT/L to M Auto, and I don't think I can get 9000 rpm out of my first racer. BOSS would be the way to go, but they cost a lot. I can get the Mexican for around $300.

Dale

Ford BOSS or Dart for SS MY stuff is north of 9500 on every pass I wouldn't waste my time or money on a taco block for a stocker much less a SS MOTOR, spend wisely and spend it once we built many nice reliable bracket motors out of Taco blocks I have been doing this a long time and have been using Ford Racing blocks since the A-4 Trans Am blocks became available in 1982 and still do if you want to make power from a little motor you need good ring seal, to get good ring seal you need a good block while better than a stock 289/302 unit, a filled Taco block will still never do the job that a aftermarket FRPP or Dart can..