Anti- sieze on NGK TR55 plugs - Page 2

bykr · 08-20-2020, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Stout

I understand the anti seize because of 2 different metals, but I thought that it enhanced poor grounding of plug to head. Maybe I dreamed it.

In theory maybe but there's plenty of metal to metal contact at the gasket area.

e vassar · 08-20-2020, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bykr

In theory maybe but there's plenty of metal to metal contact at the gasket area.

Interesting theory....
Since spark plugs operate at a very high voltage 40K volts or more?...but very low current something measured in miliamps . A very small contact area with the head should be enough grounding....In theory...would like to hear more on this ...these plugs have a tapered seat and no washer to compress. When the seat hits the head...thats it..they dont really turn after that. I dont see how they can be over tightened without causing severe damage. So im going to theorize (again) that the plugs were so hard to get out because they have been in there awhile, and no anti-seize was used.

Jeff Stout · 08-20-2020, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e vassar

Interesting theory....
Since spark plugs operate at a very high voltage 40K volts or more?...but very low current something measured in miliamps . A very small contact area with the head should be enough grounding....In theory...would like to hear more on this ...these plugs have a tapered seat and no washer to compress. When the seat hits the head...thats it..they dont really turn after that. I dont see how they can be over tightened without causing severe damage. So im going to theorize (again) that the plugs were so hard to get out because they have been in there awhile, and no anti-seize was used.

You saying taper seat plugs on aluminum head? Didn't think that was possible.

Jim Caughlin · 08-20-2020, 07:20 PM

After ripping the threads out of my alum head from a seized spark plug, I'm not inclined to put in a plug without anti-seize again. Incidentally, happened at a divisional race 1000 miles from home so not the most opportune time for it to happen.

Jim Caughlin
SS6019

KRatcliff · 08-20-2020, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Stout

You saying taper seat plugs on aluminum head? Didn't think that was possible.

Taper seat plugs are what we use on our LT1 and LS1 aluminum heads.

Jeff Stout · 08-20-2020, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRatcliff

Taper seat plugs are what we use on our LT1 and LS1 aluminum heads.

Thank you. Learned something new

Dissident · 08-20-2020, 08:45 PM

Biggest problem with anti-seize is that folks tend to slop it on instead of using small amounts per the mfg's instructions.

Regards,
HB2

Dissident

SSDiv6 · 08-20-2020, 11:18 PM

I use anti-seize, however, not all anti-seize products are the same. I recommend either a Copper or Nickle based high temperature antiseize. The Champion brand that Curtis Reed showed in the earlier post is a very great product used in aviation.

Based on recommendations from a friend that managed a NASCAR engine shop for many years, I use Copaslip high temp anti-sieze on the spark plug threads. Copaslip makes two products, Copaslip and Molyslip; the one to use is Copaslip without moly. Moly, when exposed to high temperatures may induce corrosion.

Another great product is Jet-Lube NIKAL anti-seize, which is nickel based and the Ford XL-2 High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize.

Not only I recommend these products for spark plugs, but also with O2 sensors.

Also, proper torque is critical, for the right thread engagement I suggest using the manufacturer specification. I have seen to many plugs that appear to have been installed with a breaker bar. It is also recommended that when you have a sealing washer, torque, loosen and re-torque to compress the washer, making sure you get the proper thread engagement and heat transfer.

Dave Noll · 08-22-2020, 01:06 PM

With dissimilar metals (steel spark plug, aluminium head) there's an electrolysis that occurs. That is what welds the plugs into the heads like in Jims example. Electricians use it for the same reason. The same electrolysis that occurs in the cooling system and can be measured with a volt meter because its acting like a battery. And where an anode saves other things in the cooling system from erosion.

Ed Wright · 08-22-2020, 02:46 PM

I also use it on intake & header bolts. Anything that screws into aluminum.

08-20-2020, 07:20 PM	#14
Jim Caughlin Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Woodburn, Or Posts: 685 Likes: 82 Liked 805 Times in 245 Posts	Re: Anti- sieze on NGK TR55 plugs After ripping the threads out of my alum head from a seized spark plug, I'm not inclined to put in a plug without anti-seize again. Incidentally, happened at a divisional race 1000 miles from home so not the most opportune time for it to happen. Jim Caughlin SS6019

08-20-2020, 08:45 PM	#17
Dissident Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Colorado hills Posts: 123 Likes: 11 Liked 73 Times in 36 Posts	Re: Anti- sieze on NGK TR55 plugs Biggest problem with anti-seize is that folks tend to slop it on instead of using small amounts per the mfg's instructions. Regards, HB2 Dissident

08-20-2020, 11:18 PM	#18
SSDiv6 VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Glendale, Arizona Posts: 3,044 Likes: 712 Liked 1,580 Times in 582 Posts	Re: Anti- sieze on NGK TR55 plugs I use anti-seize, however, not all anti-seize products are the same. I recommend either a Copper or Nickle based high temperature antiseize. The Champion brand that Curtis Reed showed in the earlier post is a very great product used in aviation. Based on recommendations from a friend that managed a NASCAR engine shop for many years, I use Copaslip high temp anti-sieze on the spark plug threads. Copaslip makes two products, Copaslip and Molyslip; the one to use is Copaslip without moly. Moly, when exposed to high temperatures may induce corrosion. Another great product is Jet-Lube NIKAL anti-seize, which is nickel based and the Ford XL-2 High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize. Not only I recommend these products for spark plugs, but also with O2 sensors. Also, proper torque is critical, for the right thread engagement I suggest using the manufacturer specification. I have seen to many plugs that appear to have been installed with a breaker bar. It is also recommended that when you have a sealing washer, torque, loosen and re-torque to compress the washer, making sure you get the proper thread engagement and heat transfer.

08-22-2020, 01:06 PM	#19
Dave Noll Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Div. 6, Eastern, WA Posts: 709 Likes: 2,671 Liked 238 Times in 111 Posts	Re: Anti- sieze on NGK TR55 plugs With dissimilar metals (steel spark plug, aluminium head) there's an electrolysis that occurs. That is what welds the plugs into the heads like in Jims example. Electricians use it for the same reason. The same electrolysis that occurs in the cooling system and can be measured with a volt meter because its acting like a battery. And where an anode saves other things in the cooling system from erosion. __________________ Dave Noll, EF/S ,?/SA 6526

08-22-2020, 02:46 PM	#20
Ed Wright Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sand Springs, OK Posts: 8,132 Likes: 896 Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts	Re: Anti- sieze on NGK TR55 plugs I also use it on intake & header bolts. Anything that screws into aluminum. __________________ Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA