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#21 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Anthem, Arizona
Posts: 2,766
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Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
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All advice here is proven. FYI - I ran SS style leaf springs from Tri-City Competition (Launcher springs) for a long time with Cal-Track bars. The car was reasonably fast but never 60' like I thought it should. In hindsight, I should have used the springs with no bars. And to make it worse, I used the front spring clamps that I was advised to run. That suspension was one bound-up SOB! But it was my doing, not Tri-Cities.
When I finally saw the light, I installed Calvert springs. Suddenly I had a whole new race car. Big improvements followed immediately.
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX |
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#22 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 202
Likes: 9
Liked 225 Times in 30 Posts
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You need to soften the rear suspension. When it is stiff the tire has to do all the
work, once it begins to spin , it cant recover. If you can not afford new springs, remove some leaves from your existing springs. 2-3 leaves is all you need when using a traction bar. I would suggest using 1 clamp on the front segment only. Also as stated the shocks are very important, get a good set of adjustable rear shocks. Make sure the front end is not binding, you want it as loose as you can get it and use the front shocks to control it. This may not provide a complete cure for your problem, but are steps in the right direction. |
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#23 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Posts: 92
Likes: 243
Liked 23 Times in 13 Posts
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Barrett , You're in luck. My Welds are 15 X 8's with 3-1/2" backspacing to the flange (approx 3-1/8" to the bead). The slicks are ET Drag 28X10.5 which are actually a little narrower at the bulge than the ET street 28X12.50's.
The slicks have never been run... you mount and balance them and you can make some runs. You'll need long studs for these rims (I think you have those already?) I should have lugs in 1/2" or 7/16" Gary |
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#24 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
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