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Old 09-12-2011, 01:04 AM   #21
carl hinkson
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Default Re: Stocker block SBC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reimer 7376 View Post
Jegs shows the 4"bore, 2 pc rear main seal block, Jegs pt #301-31161111 for 1499.99 plus $ 119 truck freight. That would be a good way to get one and save $140.00 sales tax. I should get rid of all my old stuff and buy one of these.
For another 230.00 you can get one fully machined, decked, line honed to 2.6415, bored to your desired size and plate honed, chamfer around the main housing bores, chamfer freeze plug and cam plug holes, check lifter bores for proper size. cleaned ready to go and shipping is 125.00

Also we can machine lifter bores to .904 which is very common.

If this helps!!
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:13 AM   #22
Chad E532
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Default Re: Stocker block SBC

Thanks for all the great feedback.

Is there any reason to look at the Little M or Motown blocks or is the Dart 3116111 the way to go?

Is the Dart 3116111 strong enough to not require Hard Blok as cast?

Thanks
Chad
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Old 09-12-2011, 12:08 PM   #23
Alan Roehrich
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Default Re: Stocker block SBC

I'd only use either of the Dart blocks. I think the SHP block is fine. The thing about Hard Block or Embeco block filler is that it also provides thermal stability. The SHP block is considerably thicker and stronger than say in "010" production block. "Pouring" the SHP might not be an absolute necessity, as I feel it is with production blocks, but I still prefer to pour my blocks.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:59 PM   #24
Bill Bogues
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Smile Re: Stocker block SBC

I'm running a Dart Little m block in my sbc stocker. While it's certianly beefy enough I really think it's a little on the "overkill' side for a stocker; especially an automatic car. My block weighed 217lbs bare; which is 20lbs over my filled chevy block. Just something to think about when you're scaling your car.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:22 PM   #25
Alan Roehrich
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Default Re: Stocker block SBC

I'd tend to agree with Bill that the Little M is over kill for a stocker, especially when you consider cost. I would not, however, use the Dart fasteners for the main caps in either case, Little M or SHP, I'd switch to ARP studs, and align hone the block. Not sure exactly what the weight difference is between the Little M and the SHP.
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