Impossible to achieve high 1.20s sixties

[69Cobra]

I like to stop with the tires at the edge of the water then stab the clutch before the tires grab and put excessive heat in the clutch. So I would recommend that as well as staging as shallow as possible. The other two biggest factors I see is that the wheelie bars appear to be slapping the ground at launch and unloading the rear-end and causing the tires to spin a lot more than I would want. The other thing is that the rear suspension doesn't appear to be separating and planting the tire. So I would try to keep the heat out of the clutch during the burnout, stage as shallow as possible with some break pressure to hold the car still, raise the wheelie bars so they aren't unloading the rear suspension and if that doesn't get you there see what you can do about getting the rear suspension to separate to help plant the tire then look at taking some clutch out of it if that doesn't get you there. Last but not least put a set of new M/T tires on it. Just my .02

[Jeff Lee]

Originally Posted by joespanova

I like the feedback and how some of you dont pull any punches ( LOL ).
Well , the "creeping" of the car thru air gap or ? is an anomaly......that in itself is unusual and about to be corrected.
If the car sits in the water during the burn out it just doesn't work as well........hasn't in the past anyway , and thats why that "tradition" has carried over to this day........perhaps I can re- think that.
As I have stated previously , as I have had this car for a long time,MOST of the suggestions have been tried in the past...... HOWEVER , the results are the same. I will be freshening the clutch ........at that point I will have a new disc and fresh heat shield. If taking out base and adding c'weight is the answer ..so be it. The suggestion to use a taller first gear ( or is it lower, LOL ) is a consideration ( a 2.xx )........
I am still listening.............and thanks for the suggestions.

BTW , that video was added to answer Bigleys question.....not to be evaluated in the presumption that thats typical of the cars behavior.

Nobody said anything about doing a burnout IN the water.
What's the pinion angle and whatever that # is, are you 110% sure you have measured it correctly?

[joespanova]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

Nobody said anything about doing a burnout IN the water.
What's the pinion angle and whatever that # is, are you 110% sure you have measured it correctly?

So , whats your suggestion on pinion angle?
BTW , what are the best 60's from the AMX? For comparison.....do tell.......

[joespanova]

[quote ]I agree with Brad, first off stop the thing from rolling...[/quote]

Naturally , The clutch is getting attention now........like I said...that video is not typical..........

[joespanova]

incrementals on one of those runs:
.077
1.33
3.865
6.026
113.21
7.905
9.510
139.86

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Don't have any of the old tickets Joespanova, but my nova we talked about was similiar I remember incrementals.

Usaully around 1.27 60' best remember is 1.26
best 330' remember is 3.94
best 660' remember 6.12 @ 109
Had 3.25 1st. 5.57 rear left @ 8800 shifted @ 8200 just past 60' timer had Mc leod soft loc w base all the way down 300 lbs (i believe) and no counterweight added.
I don't know what rpm you crank but,I think you said 3.25/5.86,I'm guessing it would take around 9000-9500 shift point to clear 60' in low gear

You'll probaly find @ least .05 quicker or more by being shallow staged,not to mention there's no way to race w/ car moving RT/ET will be all over the place,if you run full tree just stage @ idle and set line loc,no reason to bring engine up while staging on full .500 tree,get staged locked it down then you can zing it.
if running pro tree get brake pressure gauge and find the right pressure for you,so you can stage w/rpm up

You have to get car to sit still in beams,have positive stop for clutch,and same RPM everytime to make car consistent @ET,RT
You need positive stop on clutch,so air gap is same everytime(start@ .050'' if shifting w/clutch) so car will hit the tires the same,RT's will be consistent,I use micro switch on stop to operate line loc,so I don't have to release it,if use 2 step hook there also
Mike Taylor3601

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601

You'll probaly find @ least .05 quicker or more by being shallow staged,not to mention there's no way to race w/ car moving RT/ET will be all over the place,if you run full tree just stage @ idle and set line loc,no reason to bring engine up while staging on full .500 tree,get staged locked it down then you can zing it.
if running pro tree get brake pressure gauge and find the right pressure for you,so you can stage w/rpm up

You have to get car to sit still in beams,have positive stop for clutch,and same RPM everytime to make car consistent @ET,RT
Mike Taylor3601

Joe, not to beat a dead horse but this^^^ is everything and must be achieved before doing anything else.

[joespanova]

OK guys...thanks , really I appreciate the suggestions.................BUT FOR THE 4th TIME..........The car generally/ make that ALWAYS , until those videos......... does NOT have a history of rolling in the beams!Apparently I have to get in the bellhousing and see whats going on , but that again is NOT typical.......................I knew it was creeping as I could feel it dragging the clutch , probaly from too much heat or air gap or both ..........BUT as I've stated ( how many times , LOL ) in its entire life I have NEVER had a 1.20 anything regardless of shallow staging , clutch not dragging etc etc........so I was beginning to think this old chassis ( or TYPE of suspension ) just won't...........
You guys are evaluating the car's performane based on 2 videos...that wasn't my intent . Again , Ed asked a question....I said see for yourself with the videos...........I never asked anyone to "critique" the car based on those videos.......of which everyone seems to be doing , LOL.
At the risk of sounding "arrogant" which I hope I'm not.......I have been driving stick drag cars ever since I earned my drivers license .....some of the replies are academic .............this thread is NOT please evaluate these videos.........it IS however about "is it unrealistic to expect" an older leaf sprung / ladder bar, back half car to see consistant 1.2XX sixty foot times

[Jeff Lee]

Originally Posted by joespanova

So , whats your suggestion on pinion angle?
BTW , what are the best 60's from the AMX? For comparison.....do tell.......

There is no comparison as my car has a Cal-Track (bars & springs) set-up with AFCO shocks and 9" wide slicks. But with a 634 HP SS engine it had consistent 1.38 60' times, best ET was 10.02 @ 133 in SS/H @ 3160 minimum. Pinion angle was 5*. And then we found out what was wrong with the chassis and it's been parked since.

I have run ladder bar cars with coil-over shocks and 11.5 wide slicks and would suggest a minimum of 5* to 6* pinion angle. Yes I know, that's 1* to 2* more than most would say. But I've never had a car with traction problems.
But that means I've never had enough HP...

There's a video of my car on YouTube. Rob Youngblood saw it and noticed I had too much line-lock pressure as I was having to force the car to the final stage light. I was running 250#'s. He suggested 100-150#'s as bumping it in like I was tears up the clutch. I took his suggestion and it worked a lot better.
There's a lot of good advice here and just like building a S/SS engine and car, all those little things do ad up. It's the guy's that poo-poo little ideas that never really have a lot to show in the end. And wonder why the guy in the other lane is so much faster.

[joespanova]

[QUOTE=Jeff Lee;385957] And then we found out what was wrong with the chassis and it's been parked since.

QUOTE]

so bad it was never fixed?