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#21 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Fulton County, PA
Posts: 598
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Also, IMO 150# springs are way too heavy. Much like a six cylinder type spring on the front stores energy and helps the front suspension to separate and transfer weight, a light spring on the rear wound up a few inches also stores energy and helps get the rear out and applied at the hit. I prefer to use a light spring to accomplish that and use the shock to control the speed. 110s may be a bit too light once you raise the front of the bars, which I agree should be tried. Tightening the compression should help keep the rear out and applied and reduce the basketball effect of the tires. A rough racetrack may limit how tight you can run that knob. Also, I'm not sure a stiff sidewall tire is what you want. The stiffer sidewalls tend to want to bounce the rear back up into the car more so than other style tires. |
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#22 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Myrtle Beach, S.C.
Posts: 33
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as an old retired Superstock racer that ran a 283 I was wondering how you were setting your pre-load on your car. I set mine by having the car as level as possible and then adding enough weight in the front seat to equate to my own weight, then set the pre-load. I went through a few adjustments when I first got the car but after I got it set I didn't have to touch it, and the cars 60' was in the very low 1.40's.
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#23 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Pottstown,Pa.
Posts: 121
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You might not want equal weight on the left and right rear tires. My friends ladder bar car required 30 to 50 more pounds on the right rear to leave straight.
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#24 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Anthem, Arizona
Posts: 2,766
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You can also straighten out a car the leaves "slightly" left or right (typically it will be right) as simple as adding another 1/2 # of air to the slick. If it's pulling right, add air to the right slick.
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX |
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