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#21 |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Richmond Hill GA (and Port Ludlow WA)
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What’s the best source for a brake pressure switch? I’ve also avoided a button on the brake petal, just another thing to put in the starting line procedure.
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Jim Carter 2340 Super Stock 2340 SST/2340 Stock Set another place at the table |
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#22 |
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Join Date: Nov 2016
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Sorry but I do not have a brake pressure gauge. Sounds like I need to install one. My car is fuel injected. Will I need to change my tune up while I am on the 2 step. My car work really good running off the foot brake. Im very new to stock and the fuel injection game. Thanks.
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#23 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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#24 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Verrry South Jersey
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Do you use a practice tree? I found that it helped me narrow down the range of the lights I was cutting. Then I was able to zero in on when to leave.
Of course, if they eliminated reaction time, none of this would matter. :-) |
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#25 |
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#26 |
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So then you prestage bump in and check brake pressure then look at the tree and get on the two step? I don’t mean to sound synical, just want to make sure of the process and if this would help me
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#27 |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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ok this is gonna sound stupid but try ankle weights used them on my stick super stocker was going 10-15 red try 5pd weight
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#28 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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Everyones staging method is different, I don't look at the gauge, I listen for the two step if I am running it. My dakota fuel injected two step process is totally different than the footbrake gremlin(I don't run the pressure switch two step on it, just a gauge) Two step is just faster for some cars/trucks. I like footbraking more. Even better is a stick, now that is where the fun factor really comes in, lots of variables you can tweak to adjust RT, but don't ask me specifics, I'm a novice. Eric
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Eric Merryfield 1883 STK |
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#29 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Good advise here. Your car if set up the same each run is going to react in just about the same amount of time each run, the variable is the driver. I worked my super gas car down to decent repeatable lights on a Pro tree. I then ran it in super street and was consistently early. (I needed to adjust the car to the slower light) That was accomplished with making changes to the car. Then I went and ran some full tree classes and I was all over the place. The car was still the same and I knew it could cut decent lights on either Pro tree. The difference in the full tree races was squarely with the driver, me. I needed to find a way for the driver to be better at reacting to the full tree, blocking or leaving on the top bulb are some of the ways to accomplish that. Last edited by Mike Gray; 05-17-2018 at 01:09 PM. |
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#30 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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Drop front to 17psi
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