Stock Eliminator headers

[littlemanjoe]

Has anyone tried the TTI full race step headers with merge collectors on their stocker?

Is it worth the money for stainless Tri-y's?

[Myron Piatek]

I've always run the TTI small block step headers (1 5/8" - 1 3/4") on my IHRA car. Originally with collector extensions, then a full exhaust with an X-pipe that helped my combo. Several others have TTI on their NHRA combos including some that have added merge collectors. But I haven't run anything else to compare them to.

[SSDiv6]

If you want the best performing Mopar headers...Mark Lelchook at Performance Welding

[340Cuda]

I would also recommend Mark and I believe he only does stainless. However whomever you use I would recommend stainless or headers that were very well coated inside the tubes.

I listened to a webinar a few weeks back and Jon Kaase was one of the guests. He said they can look at an engine in their shop and tell if it had mild steel or stainless headers.

He went on to say that if a car sits for very long with mild steel headers rust forms inside them. We have all seen this. However he went on to say that any car with a cam much bigger than stock will do a very good job of vacuuming out the headers when the car starts and that rust will end up in the cylinders and even as far up stream as the carburetor.

Got my attention.

[littlemanjoe]

Originally Posted by 340Cuda

I would also recommend Mark and I believe he only does stainless. However whomever you use I would recommend stainless or headers that were very well coated inside the tubes.

I listened to a webinar a few weeks back and Jon Kaase was one of the guests. He said they can look at an engine in their shop and tell if it had mild steel or stainless headers.

He went on to say that if a car sits for very long with mild steel headers rust forms inside them. We have all seen this. However he went on to say that any car with a cam much bigger than stock will do a very good job of vacuuming out the headers when the car starts and that rust will end up in the cylinders and even as far up stream as the carburetor.

Got my attention.

You wouldn't think it would pull it into the engine, interesting.
Thank you for sharing that.

[bykr]

Yeah, that webinar was good.

[Dave Gantz]

Originally Posted by 340Cuda

I would also recommend Mark and I believe he only does stainless. However whomever you use I would recommend stainless or headers that were very well coated inside the tubes.

I listened to a webinar a few weeks back and Jon Kaase was one of the guests. He said they can look at an engine in their shop and tell if it had mild steel or stainless headers.

He went on to say that if a car sits for very long with mild steel headers rust forms inside them. We have all seen this. However he went on to say that any car with a cam much bigger than stock will do a very good job of vacuuming out the headers when the car starts and that rust will end up in the cylinders and even as far up stream as the carburetor.

Got my attention.

I put rags in my collectors. I've done it thinking I was keeping moisture out of the engine. Never thought of the rust sucked into the engine aspect. Ouch. I wonder if the rags help?

[RonP]

Try KromerKraft in Youngstown, OH,...330-539-5053
Stainless should not require a coating, but mild steel should be ceramic coated to prevent rust.

[340Cuda]

Originally Posted by Dave Gantz

I put rags in my collectors. I've done it thinking I was keeping moisture out of the engine. Never thought of the rust sucked into the engine aspect. Ouch. I wonder if the rags help?

To be 100% you probably would need something like this, if Dan still sells them.

http://www.dvorakmachine.com/essstorage.shtml

Might be easier just to pull the headers and get a good coating on them.