302 Chevrolet Engine Build

[Larry Hill]

I'm always willing to learn. What was the reason to have the honing oil shut of on #2,3,4 mains when line honing the block when the oil pump was on # 5 main on post 17? How much did it move the crank center line toward the cam centerline?

Thanks for sharing on such a classic build.

[MIKE JONES 302]

Originally Posted by Larry Hill

I'm always willing to learn. What was the reason to have the honing oil shut of on #2,3,4 mains when line honing the block when the oil pump was on # 5 main on post 17? How much did it move the crank center line toward the cam centerline?

Thanks for sharing on such a classic build.

The number 2 3 4 mains hone faster than the number 1 and 5, I turned the oil off to break the hone stones down more on the middle of the mandrel. Not sure on how much the center line was moved, but I cut the caps .003 on 1 and 5 and .005 on the 2 3 4 main caps.

[Greg Reimer 7376]

Back in the days of my vocational training, we bored several blocks in our auto shop class using a boring bar that sat on the deck and affixed itself directly to the block. Now, realizing how inaccurate the deck surfaces are on most blocks, and that the further you move away from the point of origin of a machining operation the further away from true center you get, how far off those cylinders must have been when finished from the true blueprint specs of those engines. The Sunnen CK-10 machines that located the block on the main saddles and finished the cylinders a true 90 degrees from them ushered in a new era of accuracy that we never previously knew. Once the main bearing saddles are perfectly straightened out and the cylinder bores are round, square, and properly located, and the deck is exactly parallel to the main bearing centerlines, then the engine block can be assumed to be accurate enough to proceed with. Ever notice when you get your block,crank, cam and pistons and rods back from a great machinist, how nicely they seem to go together and everything turns smoothly and they just feel like a good engine. If the block isn't right, nothing else around it will be,either.

[Larry Hill]

Mike a truing sleeve will help straighten the mandrel.

[MIKE JONES 302]

Originally Posted by Larry Hill

Mike a truing sleeve will help straighten the mandrel.

I turn the block 180 degrees to keep the mandrel tru. I adjust oil flow to slow down the honing rate. The 3 center mains can not be over stroked, they hone faster than 1 and 2 mains. I do use a truing sleeve on the rod hone mandrels, but I've never seen a truing sleeve for a line hone mandrel, but I just started machining. Could you post up an image of a "Line hone mandrel truing sleeve" Thanks

[Larry Hill]

It looks like a truing sleeve for the pin mandrel only bigger ID and longer made out of honed tubing. I like the oil holes 120* apart, drill the holes so they line up with oil feed holes on the machine. You will see the ware pattern on the shoes start to "come in"

[Mark Yacavone]

Larry, Do you have this type of equipment at your place? I know you do a lot of your own work.

[HP HUNTER]

Originally Posted by MIKE JONES 302

I turn the block 180 degrees to keep the mandrel tru. I adjust oil flow to slow down the honing rate. The 3 center mains can not be over stroked, they hone faster than 1 and 2 mains. I do use a truing sleeve on the rod hone mandrels, but I've never seen a truing sleeve for a line hone mandrel, but I just started machining. Could you post up an image of a "Line hone mandrel truing sleeve" Thanks

Here you go Mike LOL

[MIKE JONES 302]

I got the pistons last week, Icon .040 -12.7 CC dome, they came in at 712 grams with pin after some work.