H-I-J '76 Nova re-fit.

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Nmbr1GMfan

Yes, it appears mine is properly set up and I'm pretty sure it said to wire it to a ground source to activate, which we did. Hmmm!

Are you using the supplied switch with the kit or your own for activation? There seems to be slightly different wiring if you are using your own switch to trigger record. I'm kind of following along here with a manual, so forgive me if I'm off.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by FireSale

Are you using the supplied switch with the kit or your own for activation? There seems to be slightly different wiring if you are using your own switch to trigger record. I'm kind of following along here with a manual, so forgive me if I'm off.

I used the supplied Racepak switch, wired to ground, checked with a simple test light for functionality. I'm sure I missed something and there will be an "Ahh Haaa" moment at some point.

[Willyracer]

I might be misunderstaning but how did you test
With the light. The input is taken to ground.
Or did you mean you tested the switch only . I would make
A long jumper and temp short it to the battery neg post
Once removed the racepak led should start flashing (recording)
If it doesn't start recording I would check the 12v and neg wires
Going into the recorder.
The simple things are always the hardest to find.
Lol

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Willyracer

I might be misunderstaning but how did you test
With the light. The input is taken to ground.
Or did you mean you tested the switch only . I would make
A long jumper and temp short it to the battery neg post
Once removed the racepak led should start flashing (recording)
If it doesn't start recording I would check the 12v and neg wires
Going into the recorder.
The simple things are always the hardest to find.
Lol

I clamped the test light wire to positive and stuck the "record wire", when I push the button the test light lights indicating ground. Also, I'll assume when the ignition is cut after the finish line it will stop recording when I get this sorted out? Now it records till I shut it off in the program.

[Willyracer]

I have are wired like this:
The red wire (C position) is connected to the ignition
"on" wire When the ignition is turned off the racepak
Is power down. You can set it up to stop recording when
Rpm drops below a set point for a set time amount

[pfordamx]

off topic a little i'm not familier with racepak but your 1/8th mile et shows low 11 second potential which would put you comfortably under your index if you can figure out why its falling over in high.

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Nmbr1GMfan

I clamped the test light wire to positive and stuck the "record wire", when I push the button the test light lights indicating ground. Also, I'll assume when the ignition is cut after the finish line it will stop recording when I get this sorted out? Now it records till I shut it off in the program.

I have an Innovate Motorsports air/fuel recorder that activates off a short to ground momentary button like your setup. It's very sensitive to power interruptions. If I forget to shut the SD recorder off by hand and kill the engine it will dump all data from that run. Killing the engine at the stripe might be corrupting your data.


Have you been able to get a readable file at idle in the shop?

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by FireSale

I have an Innovate Motorsports air/fuel recorder that activates off a short to ground momentary button like your setup. It's very sensitive to power interruptions. If I forget to shut the SD recorder off by hand and kill the engine it will dump all data from that run. Killing the engine at the stripe might be corrupting your data.


Have you been able to get a readable file at idle in the shop?

Only by hitting record in the program.

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Nmbr1GMfan

Only by hitting record in the program.

If you have a trusted line lock or transbrake button to spare, wire it in place of the factory button to eliminate a failed switch as the issue.
If that still fails, wire a switch to the alternate contacts mentioned in the manual. It's possible the factory trigger circuit (blue button circuit) is faulty in the box.


EDIT: BTW, that switch is a $13 part.