Front End Suspension, NHRA Rule Question

[SStockDart]

Never mind the India country.....I believe you are talking about Alf Wiebe suspension parts.

One comment I found:
yes the kit is designed for completely stock bolt on suspensions, but also i think a lot of people overlook the horsepower levels its designed for, i have yet to see anyone mention its limitations in that category. it is basically designed as a ladder bar conversion, the upper arms are converted into a wishbone locator, that does nothing but hold the rear laterally. this really short ic makes the car hit the tires extremely hard and therefore will get a heavy low hp(600 or less) car moving FAST. theres on universally disliked individual that has been running alfs suspension for a while and loves to post pictures of his car with the front end 6' in the air running mid tens. if he put more power to the car, it would get a lot harder to tame. it would either hit the tires hard enough to spin them or make the car want to stand up way to high.

But, this seems to talk about rear suspension that is a replacement for stock rear suspension. I believe the thread is about front suspension.

It really doesn't matter to me. If you believe that you have he best stuff....go with it. I certainly will not try to sell you on what I use, I know it works for my cars, but might not for yours.

[RULER]

Didn't ALF have a TV. show a few years back, wasn't he some kind of alien???????

[Andy Friar]

Originally Posted by sstockdart

never mind the india country.....i believe you are talking about alf wiebe suspension parts.

One comment i found:
Yes the kit is designed for completely stock bolt on suspensions, but also i think a lot of people overlook the horsepower levels its designed for, i have yet to see anyone mention its limitations in that category. It is basically designed as a ladder bar conversion, the upper arms are converted into a wishbone locator, that does nothing but hold the rear laterally. This really short ic makes the car hit the tires extremely hard and therefore will get a heavy low hp(600 or less) car moving fast. Theres on universally disliked individual that has been running alfs suspension for a while and loves to post pictures of his car with the front end 6' in the air running mid tens. If he put more power to the car, it would get a lot harder to tame. It would either hit the tires hard enough to spin them or make the car want to stand up way to high.

But, this seems to talk about rear suspension that is a replacement for stock rear suspension. I believe the thread is about front suspension.

It really doesn't matter to me. If you believe that you have he best stuff....go with it. I certainly will not try to sell you on what i use, i know it works for my cars, but might not for yours.

Thanks for the input. Underlying message received from you, the others who have posted on here, and the pm's I have received. I have a build thread on this car and will be updating as progress is made.

[Run to Rund]

Most people remove old bushings with a blunt air chisel after putting rust penetrant on the areas where the bushings are pressed onto the arms. It is fairly common for the holes in the arms to be a little out of square, either factory, from use, or after removing the old bushings. You will find out when you try the solid steel bushings; bushings with soft inserts mask the issue. You may have to open up the holes in the arms a little, tack weld the outer bushing sleeves, and check for alignment with a 1/2" rod and the inner sleeves. Then you bend the ends of the arms until alignment is perfect. Upper arm bushings are often one piece and you just weld the bushings in as best you can, after opening up the holes in the arms enough to achieve perfect alignment. Press fit is OK if you end up with perfect alignment, and that may not happen. Use either high pressure chassis grease or moly cam lube on the friction surfaces.

[Andy Friar]

Originally Posted by Run to Rund

Most people remove old bushings with a blunt air chisel after putting rust penetrant on the areas where the bushings are pressed onto the arms. It is fairly common for the holes in the arms to be a little out of square, either factory, from use, or after removing the old bushings. You will find out when you try the solid steel bushings; bushings with soft inserts mask the issue. You may have to open up the holes in the arms a little, tack weld the outer bushing sleeves, and check for alignment with a 1/2" rod and the inner sleeves. Then you bend the ends of the arms until alignment is perfect. Upper arm bushings are often one piece and you just weld the bushings in as best you can, after opening up the holes in the arms enough to achieve perfect alignment. Press fit is OK if you end up with perfect alignment, and that may not happen. Use either high pressure chassis grease or moly cam lube on the friction surfaces.

I can do all these checks and will. Thanks for the tips.