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#1 |
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A few years back I went to a T&T, drained out the RP and put in the JG.My buddy brought his car we made a pass together he lost a hun.from his previous run (DA was the same) and I picked up 2.I left it in for another few races. I know some guys run it in B&C cars (12 bolt).Mine is a 10 bolt btw. gsa612
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#2 |
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I tried some stuff that looked like atf. The guy I got it from said comp and prostock guys used it. It wore out the ring gear in about 6 runs. It didn't break, it just wore down the teeth. I love superlight gear lube, but this stuff did not work for me. The redline superlight weight is great and I never had an issue with parts wear. I would think the gibbs stuff would be similar, but I have not tried that. Our car was a 2900lb stick stocker Nova.
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James Schaechter 3163 STK |
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#3 |
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The discussion that prompted this thread was around gear and transmission oils. The JG qualifier, and the ATI (also JG) and the properties were the focus and the pro's and con's of heat put to them. I guess the qualifier rear lube doesn't really like too much heat put to it ,somewhere around 160 degrees or so, and some of these heating pads and elements go way above that. The synthetic trans oil apparently works the same cold or hot so that is a push.
As I was working on my diff ,I was curious just how a measureable amount of heat could be applied and if it was worth it. I have heard about the ATF in the diff before but no evidence of any good qualities of using it, I assumed the gears would be sacrificed, as rear drive diffs weren't designed for that type of lube. PS thanx for the pm's some really great ideas out there, I love the outside of the box thinking
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Dion Hildebrandt 6009 STK H/SA |
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#4 |
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Dion,
There are a few issues with this conversation. First off you really cannot take anyone’s advice on what to use in your combo unless they have the exact same combo right down to surface treatment on the gears. Where ATF may be the best choice for lets say a 4 cyl FWD 200 horsepower stocker its certainly not a good choice for some blown 900 horsepower new stocker. Its all about the pressure and surface speed on the gear faces. Best thing you can do is just try a few different oils and figure out whats best for your circumstances. You do not even have to rely on a time slip to do this. Just measure the differential temperature before and after a run. You can use a heat gun or a more accurate measurement can be taken but using an eye type thermocouple under one of your cover bolts. The fluid that causes the lowest temperature rise in a run is what’s best. For those that want to use a heater it can easily be temperature controlled with the thermocouple under one of the cover bolts and a digital control. For me this is what I used to do when I ran 75 weight oil. The last couple years I have been running the Red Line super light and have no need to heat it
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Bill Edgeworth 6471 STK |
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#5 | |
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Could be the gears are cut differently (Not Hypoid?). But they use it I know.
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Art Leong 2095 SS |
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Think load from car weight could be part of it too?
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA Last edited by Ed Wright; 02-14-2014 at 08:40 PM. |
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#7 |
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Yes, just equates back to pressure on the gear face. And what Art mentioned how the gears are cut can affect both how much the gears must actually slide against each other and the actual amount of contact area they have. As for a 1400 hp FWD car using ATF could it be due to necessity as the transmission and differential share the same oil?
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Bill Edgeworth 6471 STK |
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#8 |
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Ed I'm pretty sure the way the gears are cut for a RWD application is the difference. Our ring and pinions make contact in a completely different area.
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Art Leong 2095 SS |
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