Differential heater

[art leong]

Originally Posted by Bill Edgeworth

Yes, just equates back to pressure on the gear face. And what Art mentioned how the gears are cut can affect both how much the gears must actually slide against each other and the actual amount of contact area they have. As for a 1400 hp FWD car using ATF could it be due to necessity as the transmission and differential share the same oil?

Yes they share the same oil.

[tommy d]

I have a bunch of free Valvoline 75/140 synthetic gear lube that I would like to try. We have a Dana 60 and have had 0 problems in 9 years of hard racing so I'm afraid to change anything. What do you guys think? Just looking for consistency. We now use 80/90 conventional.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by tommy d

I have a bunch of free Valvoline 75/140 synthetic gear lube that I would like to try. We have a Dana 60 and have had 0 problems in 9 years of hard racing so I'm afraid to change anything. What do you guys think? Just looking for consistency. We now use 80/90 conventional.

I use it in my Dana and the gears last literally for ever. I am sure I get way over 1000 runs and have never had one fail with the auto trans. I did try some lighter oil and the gear wore out fast. No improvement in ET with the lighter oil so I went back to the Valvoline synthetic.

[randy wilson]

I don't know if what I do works or not, but it makes me feel good about it. Here goes. I run 1\2 quart synthetic auto trans fluid, 1\2 quart 50 wt. synthetic racing motor oil, and 1 quart synthetic 80\90 gear lube. We put over 100 runs on a 6.20 gear before changing gears. Mostly 1\8th mile. A stick car leaving at 9,200, weighing 3040 lbs. The only thing I see that's changed is we used to get about 150, to 170 runs on a nodular center section then an aluminum through bolt. Anyone ran into that? Makes me wonder if the nodular might actually take less drag because of distortion. I never run it low.