HOME FORUM RULES CONTACT
     
   
   

Go Back   CLASS RACER FORUM > Class Racer Forums > Stock and Super Stock Tech
Register Photo Gallery FAQ Community Calendar

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-28-2014, 09:31 PM   #1
jbt352
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default Re: Breaking bell housings

Thanks for all the ideas.
I like the idea of going back to the factory front mounts,considering the power level we are talking.
jbt352 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2014, 08:47 AM   #2
Signman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Lower Slower Delaware
Posts: 535
Likes: 22
Liked 269 Times in 99 Posts
Smile Re: Breaking bell housings

Great thread!
The reasoning for not using solid engine mounts to avoid this problem may be a good bandaid for the real problem: Chassis Flex.

When building my cars spent a lot of time making the floor pan stiff welding all seams top and bottom with the car level then locating roll bar mounts with chassis stiffness the intent within the rules. A lot of hard dirty work but makes stock chassis cars stiff and lets the suspension work.
Rubber body mounts on A and G bodies replaced with solid steel or aluminum helps a lot.
Even though this is a 13 second car doesn't mean there is no flex. Get rid of it and pick up some ET.

Good Luck!
__________________
Frank Ferrucci I/SA 1271 "Be Thankful for the Gifts You are Given"
Signman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2014, 09:26 AM   #3
HandOverFist
VIP Member
 
HandOverFist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Posts: 1,651
Likes: 8
Liked 33 Times in 16 Posts
Default Re: Breaking bell housings

Been running street/bracket cars for years with solid motor mounts and rubber trans mounts at various power levels...never cracked a housing yet. We must just be lucky.
__________________
Rich Taylor
I/SA - 321
HandOverFist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2014, 10:11 AM   #4
Ed Wright
Veteran Member
 
Ed Wright's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sand Springs, OK
Posts: 8,132
Likes: 896
Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts
Default Re: Breaking bell housings

About the solid side motor mounts:
If you run a production block (Bow Tie blocks didn't exist when I was showed this.)
Bare block, with something soft below the test cylinder, put an inside mic in the cylinder above the soft pad, front-to-rear, up top, barely tight enough to stay in place. A healthy guy with hand above & below the mic, press hard & fast together and watch the mic fall to the pad. The old guy-machinist that showed me this about 50 years ago was no body builder either.
Think about your ring seal during launch in the cylinders next to those solid motor mounts. I would use a torque strap with stock mounts myself.
__________________
Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA
Ed Wright is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2014, 11:44 AM   #5
MAURICE BLENDHEIM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Langley (no igloos), British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 569
Likes: 309
Liked 284 Times in 87 Posts
Default Re: Breaking bell housings

jbt352… Mount the body solid to chassis by welding flat bar between frame and body mount reinforcement pads (helps reduce chassis flex). Check to see if your rear upper and lower control arm bushings are in good shape, worn bushings can change pinion angle on acceleration. I'd add a aluminum convertor cover off a mid 80's GM 4x4 to act as a case girdle in the bell housing area. You have lots of positive feedback from your post. Good Luck…Maurice.
MAURICE BLENDHEIM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2014, 07:35 PM   #6
Dave Gantz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Verrry South Jersey
Posts: 537
Likes: 134
Liked 251 Times in 125 Posts
Default Re: Breaking bell housings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Wright View Post
About the solid side motor mounts:
If you run a production block (Bow Tie blocks didn't exist when I was showed this.)
Bare block, with something soft below the test cylinder, put an inside mic in the cylinder above the soft pad, front-to-rear, up top, barely tight enough to stay in place. A healthy guy with hand above & below the mic, press hard & fast together and watch the mic fall to the pad. The old guy-machinist that showed me this about 50 years ago was no body builder either.
Think about your ring seal during launch in the cylinders next to those solid motor mounts. I would use a torque strap with stock mounts myself.
I remember reading years ago that Bob Glidden built engines on the floor so that the cylinder walls would'nt distort. That made me think some, and that usually hurts!
Dave Gantz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Class Racer.com. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners.