'67 Camaro E/SA redo - Page 21

CrateCamaro · 04-28-2014, 02:49 AM

I was under the assumption that when anything breaks in the rear end the trans is usually broke as well or needs to be checked. I bet the shaft got bent when the perches broke and or the driveshaft was rammed into the back of the trans to make the back of the case break like that. I went through two transmission cases last year (350 turbo) both broke in the bell housing. Checked and found the bolts that hold the lower engine mounts to the frame were loose. I also tossed the urethane trans mount in favour for a stock one and never had an issue since. With one solid mount and one stock appreakng mount theres going to be an issue specially if theres a hight difference. Your actually preloading the trans case when you tighten the trans mount bolts to the crossmember. The urethane mount will give a little....not alot. Another problem is with a 46 year old car that cant have any bars towards the front frame there is going to be some twist in the front sub frame. Weakest point...transmission. A rubber mount will allow it to move a bit without trying to twist the transmission in half. As far as the springs go in my opinion the split leafs are the best barr none...i had Tri City Competition springs prior to my Calvert stuff and it was night and day difference. If you are looking for ride height order a set of split monos with negative ride height but keep in mind if they will sag over time. Mine lowered itself enough to take preload out of the bars. Make sure the rear shackles are loose and move free. I have jam nuts on mine to keep them loose enough to move free and tight enough to keep them from deflecting side to side. Hope you can find the trans breaking issue. Nice crossmember too ill be looking into buying one of those.

brent flynn · 04-28-2014, 06:17 AM

CRate... do you run standard type bushing in the shackles? Or Alum?

CrateCamaro · 04-29-2014, 09:44 AM

Stock replacement. I bought the global west bushing....one fell in and the other was .050 to big. So i sold them to a friend and my mission is to build a set once my lathe is hooked up. Global West did say they would build me a set but after seeing what they sent its a simple project for anyone with some basic machine shop experience.

HandOverFist · 04-29-2014, 09:50 AM

I wouldnt put much effort in it...anything that fits the holes will be fine. The only thing that moves on mine are the thick side plates. I used slightly longer bolts and nyloc nuts to secure but not tighten the plates against the bushings...swings freely.

CrateCamaro · 04-29-2014, 09:50 AM

FYI the solid rear shackle bushing are a good idea they will stop any lateral movement and operate super smooth. Im constantly looking for a grease that will live and not move away from the bushing. I service the spings once every 3 races just to make sure that shackle is moving free and not bound up. I just had it all appart and tried ARP fastener lube on it. I was able to tighten the bolts all the way and the shackle still moved smooth. After a few hits at the track we will see if its still happy.

CrateCamaro · 04-29-2014, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

I wouldnt put much effort in it...anything that fits the holes will be fine. The only thing that moves on mine are the thick side plates. I used slightly longer bolts and nyloc nuts to secure but not tighten the plates against the bushings...swings freely.

I agree. I use old 3/8 polly locks on the top and a jam nut on the bottom with factory replacement shackles and bolts...LOL. works fine i think

HandOverFist · 04-29-2014, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrateCamaro

FYI the solid rear shackle bushing are a good idea they will stop any lateral movement and operate super smooth. Im constantly looking for a grease that will live and not move away from the bushing. I service the spings once every 3 races just to make sure that shackle is moving free and not bound up. I just had it all appart and tried ARP fastener lube on it. I was able to tighten the bolts all the way and the shackle still moved smooth. After a few hits at the track we will see if its still happy.

My way I don't have to worry with grease at all. Not to concerned with a little slop as this car only goes in a straight line...I hope hehe.

I think those using a factory side plate with the welded thru bolt have more issues. Mine are seperate plates and bolts.

Factory parts...

HandOverFist · 04-30-2014, 01:19 AM

Side by side comparison of a 1310 joint vs a 1350...

Crossmember installed...

HandOverFist · 05-02-2014, 01:51 PM

Landrum 150# monos...hope these are the last say.

Robert Simpson · 05-02-2014, 02:55 PM

Rich,

Did you have any problem installing the cross member and did it seal lighter or heavier than the stock one? Thanks

04-28-2014, 02:49 AM	#201
CrateCamaro Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 411 Likes: 1 Liked 19 Times in 7 Posts	Re: '67 Camaro E/SA redo I was under the assumption that when anything breaks in the rear end the trans is usually broke as well or needs to be checked. I bet the shaft got bent when the perches broke and or the driveshaft was rammed into the back of the trans to make the back of the case break like that. I went through two transmission cases last year (350 turbo) both broke in the bell housing. Checked and found the bolts that hold the lower engine mounts to the frame were loose. I also tossed the urethane trans mount in favour for a stock one and never had an issue since. With one solid mount and one stock appreakng mount theres going to be an issue specially if theres a hight difference. Your actually preloading the trans case when you tighten the trans mount bolts to the crossmember. The urethane mount will give a little....not alot. Another problem is with a 46 year old car that cant have any bars towards the front frame there is going to be some twist in the front sub frame. Weakest point...transmission. A rubber mount will allow it to move a bit without trying to twist the transmission in half. As far as the springs go in my opinion the split leafs are the best barr none...i had Tri City Competition springs prior to my Calvert stuff and it was night and day difference. If you are looking for ride height order a set of split monos with negative ride height but keep in mind if they will sag over time. Mine lowered itself enough to take preload out of the bars. Make sure the rear shackles are loose and move free. I have jam nuts on mine to keep them loose enough to move free and tight enough to keep them from deflecting side to side. Hope you can find the trans breaking issue. Nice crossmember too ill be looking into buying one of those. __________________ Tony Valerio 1968 Camaro 1700 IHRA H/CM 1701 NHRA SS/?A

04-28-2014, 06:17 AM	#202
brent flynn Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Middletown, IN Posts: 593 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: '67 Camaro E/SA redo CRate... do you run standard type bushing in the shackles? Or Alum? __________________ 1968 Bird/TRW 455/Home ported 13's, '70 Qjet,Holley Street Dominator manifold, Comp Solid FT, 10.817/122.30/1.440 Workin' on E/SA combo 3119 E/SA

04-29-2014, 09:44 AM	#203
CrateCamaro Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 411 Likes: 1 Liked 19 Times in 7 Posts	Re: '67 Camaro E/SA redo Stock replacement. I bought the global west bushing....one fell in and the other was .050 to big. So i sold them to a friend and my mission is to build a set once my lathe is hooked up. Global West did say they would build me a set but after seeing what they sent its a simple project for anyone with some basic machine shop experience. __________________ Tony Valerio 1968 Camaro 1700 IHRA H/CM 1701 NHRA SS/?A

04-29-2014, 09:50 AM	#204
HandOverFist VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 1,651 Likes: 8 Liked 33 Times in 16 Posts	Re: '67 Camaro E/SA redo I wouldnt put much effort in it...anything that fits the holes will be fine. The only thing that moves on mine are the thick side plates. I used slightly longer bolts and nyloc nuts to secure but not tighten the plates against the bushings...swings freely. __________________ Rich Taylor I/SA - 321

04-29-2014, 09:50 AM	#205
CrateCamaro Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 411 Likes: 1 Liked 19 Times in 7 Posts	Re: '67 Camaro E/SA redo FYI the solid rear shackle bushing are a good idea they will stop any lateral movement and operate super smooth. Im constantly looking for a grease that will live and not move away from the bushing. I service the spings once every 3 races just to make sure that shackle is moving free and not bound up. I just had it all appart and tried ARP fastener lube on it. I was able to tighten the bolts all the way and the shackle still moved smooth. After a few hits at the track we will see if its still happy. __________________ Tony Valerio 1968 Camaro 1700 IHRA H/CM 1701 NHRA SS/?A

04-30-2014, 01:19 AM	#208
HandOverFist VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 1,651 Likes: 8 Liked 33 Times in 16 Posts	Re: '67 Camaro E/SA redo Side by side comparison of a 1310 joint vs a 1350... Crossmember installed... __________________ Rich Taylor I/SA - 321

05-02-2014, 01:51 PM	#209
HandOverFist VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 1,651 Likes: 8 Liked 33 Times in 16 Posts	Re: '67 Camaro E/SA redo Landrum 150# monos...hope these are the last say. __________________ Rich Taylor I/SA - 321

05-02-2014, 02:55 PM	#210
Robert Simpson Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Jacksonville, Florida Posts: 808 Likes: 7 Liked 20 Times in 12 Posts	Re: '67 Camaro E/SA redo Rich, Did you have any problem installing the cross member and did it seal lighter or heavier than the stock one? Thanks