|
|
![]() |
#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kemah TX
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
![]()
I only gave up 16 HP with my #1 base plate stop on a BBC with a 2" super sucker under it and a Dart intake. I think the HP loss has allot to due with the intake configuration.
I have run mine on both alcohol and gas with no changes except slicing the blades below the throttle shafts to keep the fuel from puddling up on the blades when the stop is on. Also if you have allot of HP spend the extra to put the second air cyl. as well as the extra flow controls on both on and off. If you do this you will be able to get down any track around because you can control both directions of the cyl. action. As far as air pressure you only need 80-90 PSI to operate the stop so as long as you have 200+ PSI in the bottle you can make a run without any problems. But always have a way to fill your bottle or carry a spare. But whatever you do, ONLY BUY AN AIR STOP the electric is a good way to get into trouble on a bad track with allot of power. On the pro stage I turn mine off when .90 racing I want to be the one matting the throttle not the box doing it when I depress the TB button. Hope this helps, Mike
__________________
Mike Hedger S/C 4646 MPH Racing and Fabrication Last edited by Mike Hedger; 11-14-2007 at 08:53 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 4 Posts
|
![]()
I think your going to see more loss at a lower HP motor. I think the intake is the key here. On my 565 it dyno'ed at 915HP 745 lb torque with out the stop. With the stop it was the same. The intake has been ported and hogged out to match the heads. Flowed the heads and then bolted the intake on it. There was a huge dif in flow with the stock configuration of the intake Edelbrock 2927. Spent about $300 on the intake to get the flow numbers back up. Hope this helps.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 252
Likes: 306
Liked 132 Times in 27 Posts
|
![]()
I think in my case its the carb thats the limiting factor in the horsepower loss. I am using a 750 holley (old reliable) and feel that this setup is consistant but alot smaller than it should be. I will be trying a new 1000 cfm carb and it should help in the hp loss. If nothing else it should be 20-25 hp stronger up top and the dyno will tell.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
Have a #1 stop under the carb and a super sucker back to back runs with and without the stop same ET did this on gas and alky Everyone told me the stop wood slow the car a tenth when running it wide open.
Guess it has to do with your set up. This was done with a 1050 cfm carb one is a ruppert carb and the other is a devince carb |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Springfield IL
Posts: 24
Likes: 20
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
I like under the carb #1 stop. I ran electric on my 8.90 172 sc dragster and never had a problem. If you use the stop in low gear I would use an air on air off so you can control traction problems. If you are on the stop in high gear electric is fine. I was on the stop at .050 and shifted at .5 into the run and went wide open at about 2.00 seconds. If your turning 4000rpm on the stop and your in high gear your not going to have any traction problems. I was running 1.70 60 fts so I was only about 80-90 feet out when it went wide open.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|