'66 Malibu N/SA

[impstocker]

On a earlier post about getting the right intake gasket thickness so everything lines up, I just make my own out of gasket material using a regular available gasket as a template. I then use anti-seize compound as a dealer , also can remove intake and reinstall with same gasket.

Will Lamprecht
65 Impala I/SA 396/325

[Dave Muller]

Originally Posted by impstocker

On a earlier post about getting the right intake gasket thickness so everything lines up, I just make my own out of gasket material using a regular available gasket as a template. I then use anti-seize compound as a dealer , also can remove intake and reinstall with same gasket.

Will Lamprecht
65 Impala I/SA 396/325

There's some good ideas there, Will. The gaskets I'll be using are meant to be cut-to-fit, as someone here suggested a while back. It turns out they fit the ports almost perfectly. But they have large elongated bolt holes, I presume to make them compatible with different port locations. I use gasket cement around the water passages only to glue them to the heads so they won't move while I drop the manifold on. I've been leaving the manifold side dry, but using some anti-seize on that side sounds good, I think I'll try that next time.

[Mark Yacavone]

Never had a Chevrolet Orange 283, unless it was original!
Probably my least favorite OEM color.
To each his own, buddy.. ;-)

[Dave Muller]

Before swapping engines again I decided I didn't want to keep pulling the radiator, which also would mean pulling the trans cooler lines. So I made up a piece of particle board to protect the radiator when I lift the engine out.



I used Dupli-Color for the engine which turned out a little redder than whatever was used on "Johnny Red". I think it looks a little better this way.



For all I know everyone but me already knew about this little trick, but just in case... A couple of years ago I bought new headers for my Camaro and found it was much harder to get at the spark plugs. The plug socket that came with my socket set seemed like the right concept but was too long, so I made my own. Worked great. But that's for a 5/8" hex, here I had the same problem but needed it in 13/16". So I pulled out a 1/2" drive short 13/16" socket and went at it with the grinder. The result allows me to easily use a 13/16" box end wrench on any plug.



And a little while later my son came over and we started up Johnny Black. Didn't start quite as easily as the other engine, but ran better, probably because I now have the good carburetor on it instead of the swap meet carb. That one I expect could be gotten into shape without too much trouble but I may not ever get around to it. There are a couple of minor (I think) glitches; I had a significant leak of ATF at one of the cooler line connections to the trans; that's about 98% fixed, but there's still a tiny drip. I mainly focused on one line, but this may be the other one now.

And there's a small oil leak, which seems to be from the plug on the block just above the oil filter. Hopefully that won't be too much trouble either.

Meanwhile the spare engine is now nestled under the workbench. It actually fits under there pretty well, even though it's a narrow space.



I have a video of the engine starting, I'm hoping I can figure out how to get that on here soon.

[Dave Muller]

Captain Zoom II keeps inching along. Probably the best change recently... no more leaks from the engine. Glad I have those issues sorted out.

Also I reworked the collector extensions so they clear the cross member. This one needed a lot more angle than the other.



And I got the door glass installed in both doors, along with all the associated weatherstripping.



However, in the process the mis-alignment of the right door, that I wasn't concerned about earlier, is now worse. I tried moving the striker to get the door closer, but I still wound up with this as the best I seem to be able to do.



I think I'm going to get a professional involved in adjusting the doors and windows, and hopefully have them do the headliner while they're at it.

[Jeff Stout]

Should be able to loosen bottom door hinge from door and push door in. It could change the way window touches body up top.

[Dave Muller]

Originally Posted by Jeff Stout

Should be able to loosen bottom door hinge from door and push door in. It could change the way window touches body up top.

I think it's not so much that the bottom of the door needs to go in; it's hitting, that's why it doesn't go in further. I think it needs to move toward the back of the car. Or else the top hinge needs to move forward. But that's tough to do with the fenders on.