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#1 |
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Location: Lower Dakota territory
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Love what you and your family are doing, Todd.
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#2 |
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Thank you sir! Gonna hit it hard again this weekend and see if we can get it ready to strip the paint. We have till D2 Orlando 2018, gonna be a thrash!
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Todd Greene |
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#3 |
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Some unexpected stuff pulled me away but we got some work done today. Steering column and some more interior bits are out, fuel system and lines are out, master cyl and all brake lines are out, driveshaft loop is out as well as the front subframe.
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Todd Greene |
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#4 |
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Snuck down to the shop this afternoon and pulled the rear apart. I'm no rear end expert but a funny thing, no crush sleeve or spacer on the pinion???
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Todd Greene |
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#5 |
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Location: Colorado hills
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Have really enjoyed following you and your daughter's build.
![]() However, in the vernacular concerning the pinion...."That ain't right". ![]() Best of luck on your adventures with the build. ![]() Regards, Dissident |
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#6 |
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Todd, I haven't used a spacer or crush sleeve for decades. Some red Loctite on the pinion shaft where the front pinion bearing goes is what I do. Acetone or brake cleaner to degrease the pinion shaft and bearing race. -Al
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#7 |
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How does the large pinion bearing survive the load from the ring gear without the collar?
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#8 |
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Thank you Alan. I figured there would be an explanation being that everything looks to be in good shape. When I took it apart to instal the new yoke, the pinion nut was loctite'ed, seemed tight but I did notice the pinion spun with very little resistance.
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#9 |
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Using red Loctite as Alan described is very effective.
If you are anticipating "field work", i.e. changing ring and pinions at the track, a fitted sleeve spacer makes for quick service. Sand the pinion where the large bearing fits to make it easy to remove and install the bearing on the new pinion using a brass drift and hammer. I have prepared by fitting everything in the shop and been able to change ratios in a 12 bolt at the track in 30 minutes. (Wear gloves! The pieces are awfully hot after a run.)
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