69 Camaro B/S

[Troy Henderson]

I've got a tab welded to the headers for my spring. .050" air gap is a good starting place. You might go a bit more if you want room to adjust your reaction time in the future.

Originally Posted by J&S Racing

Motor and trans, back in.

I’ve been messing with the clutch fork and linkage. I have a few questions for any of the stick guys following my build.

Where should I run the spring off the fork? Factory it looks like there’s metal extension rod that connects the spring to the motor mount. I’ve also seen where guys attach a hose clamp to a header tube..

Throwout bearing to pressure plate finger clearance?? I’ve read 1/8” to 1/2”

Where is a good place to start with air gap? From the info I gathered I’m thinking of starting with .050

[gmonde]

did you replace your stock linkage with heim joints from the pedal to the fork ? that's an upgrade worth doing
as mentioned .050 is a good place to start ,also TOB to levers should be no less than a 1/4 as for the amount of counter weight will affect how close the fingers comes to the bearing at high rpm,,
gmonde

nice build !

[J&S Racing]

Thanks guys!!

[QUOTE=gmonde;583884]did you replace your stock linkage with heim joints from the pedal to the fork ? that's an upgrade worth doing
as mentioned .050 is a good place to start ,also TOB to levers should be no less than a 1/4 as for the amount of counter weight will affect how close the fingers comes to the bearing at high rpm,,
gmonde

I am replacing the linkage. Think I need to take about 3” out of the top bar but it’s getting there.

[Paul Merolla]

My spring runs from the bottom of the dash to the pedal, for what it's worth.

[Joe Martens]

Originally Posted by Paul Merolla

My spring runs from the bottom of the dash to the pedal, for what it's worth.

I have the same. I also had a spring from the fork to the other end of the rod where it attaches to the Z bar to prevent the rod from popping off the fork. Since then though I had the fork modified to attach the rod with a rod end. Also, keep in mind if you are using a spacer between the block and bell for clutch clearance, that will give you more room for throw out bearing clearance. I use the shortest throw out bearing I could find available from NAPA. I can get you the number if you want. Are you planning on the Maple Grove Divisional?
Good luck with the rest of the build!

[J&S Racing]

Originally Posted by Joe Martens

I have the same. I also had a spring from the fork to the other end of the rod where it attaches to the Z bar to prevent the rod from popping off the fork. Since then though I had the fork modified to attach the rod with a rod end. Also, keep in mind if you are using a spacer between the block and bell for clutch clearance, that will give you more room for throw out bearing clearance. I use the shortest throw out bearing I could find available from NAPA. I can get you the number if you want. Are you planning on the Maple Grove Divisional?
Good luck with the rest of the build!

I ended up not using a spacer. I have the McLeod adjustable throwout bearing so I should be able to dial it in.

Don’t think I’ll make the Grove. I’m also in the process of putting a new combo together for my dragster. The plan is to run most of the season at our home track (NED). I wanna get my GF some more seat time in the digger while I sort out the stocker. If everything goes good Id like to hit the Dutch for my first race in stock.

[J&S Racing]

Been busy..

Wiring is 75% done.

Got her down on the ground today to get a idea on the stance. Back sits good for no weight or fuel. The fronts right about where I want it but there’s a problem!!! How it sits the shock is bottomed out. I think Marty Rinehart sells some weld on ears to drop the shock through the lower control arm, gonna give him s call tomorrow.



I was inspired by the “how to lighten a stocker” thread. Put my 2 step switch bracket through a lightning program, lol can mark that off the list. Pedal stop is next.