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#1 |
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Location: VA
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might be on to something, base of carb body is warped .011", top of base plate is .002"
I think I'll find some socket head screws to replace the Phillips head ones.
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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#2 |
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Well I made some progress. The screws are #12, so I didn't have any of those, so I tightened up the base plate best I could and ran it. The last few times I've run this engine,the vacuum floats from 8-12 in. with the rpm tracking the the vacuum, acted the same this time. Took off the carb and there was still fuel in the intake, maybe a little less. I took the carb base plate off and the base, body, and gasket were pretty much dry. Previously they were soaking wet. Far from a slam dunk, but it's worth pursuing. I think I will try to re-surface the body and get a new gasket.
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#3 |
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Ok, I have finally found the real issue here. I did end up re-surfacing the bottom of the body and that is sealed up well. My original thought was to take out the power valve, I never tried that. So after looking at the baseplate, a lightbulb flickered on. First picture shows how I originally had it put together, second one is the fix.
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#4 |
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So changing from a 4 hole to a open plenum manifold gasket solved your issue?
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#5 |
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It made a huge difference in the idle. from what I see, the first gasket blocked the source of manifold vacuum that feeds the PV. I think the PV was opening during idle. At least that is my new theory. Spark plugs are now dry as well.
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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#6 |
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Make sure you have some sort of 4 hole gasket or something else, like a 4 hole thin spacer, to keep a base plate to bowl screw from getting loose and backing out and falling into the engine through the intake! Holleys do that.Could save you an engine.
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#7 |
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Thanks Greg. Good point. My theory #2 didn't pan out. Although I've seen fuel stains where there shouldn't be any, so trying a few things. Pretty annoyed with this carb as it's fresh from one of the name gurus, but I guess it's a good training experience for me.
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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