H-I-J '76 Nova re-fit.

[gsa612]

Adding more tire psi really picked up the 60'.The motor is making way more than 390 hp!.Good job!!...gsa612

[Dissident]

Todd &Autumn,
Electronic tachometers are typically +/-5% of full scale devices. You could have used the tach while you were on the dyno (using the dyno tach as a standard for comparison) to quantify it. However, you can use an MSD ignition tester to quantify the real numbers fof both tach and shift light. The process only takes a few minutes and doesn't require running the engine, using a test spark plug.


The g meter indication on the race pak can also give you lots of info on shift points as when the g is at peak in each gear so you can relate that to RPM for solid reference.



Good Luck in your testing process. Takes a lot of passes, but worthwhile when you take good notes and narrow solution paths.


Regards,
HB2
Dissident

[Rich Biebel]

An MSD ignition tester is a good tool to check a tach.

I’ve had tachs off as much as 500 rpm at 7000

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by gsa612

Adding more tire psi really picked up the 60'.The motor is making way more than 390 hp!.Good job!!...gsa612

In todays weather, definitely more than 390!

[gsa612]

What's up in the 1st rd,on live timing it shows the car dialed at 11.30 and no other incrementals.Shows Cagnazzi the winner...gsa612 *edit* we both posted at the same time.I had the rotor loosen off tore the s*** out of the cap.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

We had a great matchup with Victor Cagnazzi today for first round which was kind of cool since Autumn first met Victor about 2005 and he has always been super cool. Unfortunately, in the burnout the car just abruptly shut off, got it back and started checking everything (we were expecting the worst) and turn out the little screw on the rotor came off and poof... the two piece rotor is in fact... a two piece rotor (maybe we need a Loctite sponsor). So Autumn has surmised that possibly our pass this morning wasn't what we thought it could have been because of a possible timing issue. Later testing will determine that. We'll leave tomorrow morning for home.

[FED 387]

Todd and Autumn---that might partially explain why the engine did not want to rev under a load as it was "partially retarding the timing" --- might want to replace the cap along with the rotor and in the future put a drop of loctite or silicone on those threads to keep them snug---its possible in all your thrashing and assembly that the "screw" really never was tightened merely snugged from the get go---I'm impressed its all coming together very nicely --- Optimistic for your future results--- might want to RE-DYNO the engine in an as is configuration and then try "some things" on the dyno to see what it likes--- looking for that sweet spot so to speak---Regards FED 387

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by FED 387

Todd and Autumn---that might partially explain why the engine did not want to rev under a load as it was "partially retarding the timing" --- might want to replace the cap along with the rotor and in the future put a drop of loctite or silicone on those threads to keep them snug---its possible in all your thrashing and assembly that the "screw" really never was tightened merely snugged from the get go---I'm impressed its all coming together very nicely --- Optimistic for your future results--- might want to RE-DYNO the engine in an as is configuration and then try "some things" on the dyno to see what it likes--- looking for that sweet spot so to speak---Regards FED 387

Totally my fault, I remember tightening it on the dyno but didn't use Loctite, just the little spring washer. Won't make that mistake again. I truly believe now (might be wrong) our old headers would cure the issue of pulling down low, they also might cause a horsepower problem up top though too. Maybe I just need some collector extensions, testing will sort all this out. We'll probably put some new plugs in it and swap headers for Rockingham to see what it does.

[Greg Reimer 7376]

I just went out and pulled the distributor caps on both my Monte Carlo and my wagon and put a drop of blue Loctite on the rotor screw threads. A thing like this is worth checking. One thing about race cars, you never seem to run out of things to do where they are concerned.

[Nmbr1GMfan]

Originally Posted by Greg Reimer 7376

I just went out and pulled the distributor caps on both my Monte Carlo and my wagon and put a drop of blue Loctite on the rotor screw threads. A thing like this is worth checking. One thing about race cars, you never seem to run out of things to do where they are concerned.

That's the plan, I hope some of our miscues help a few out. We certainly have made our share.