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12-06-2020, 12:29 PM | #31 |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
It might be time to check the Rubber brake lines or Stainless Steel hoses they might look good on the outside but swollen on the inside. I've had to change them on my pick-up truck so i know they go bad. Kenney Kelley
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12-06-2020, 12:33 PM | #32 | |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
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12-06-2020, 12:39 PM | #33 | |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
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Don Kennedy 7701 SS |
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12-06-2020, 12:52 PM | #34 |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
The grounding subject has been brought up before.
Due to many possible issues, when wiring a race car, especially with EFI and electronics, you should avoid grounding to the chassis and/or engine. The best approach is a single grounding location for all the electrical and components, directly to the battery ground. Since several ground points will creates a ground loop it is probably the reason why the car that was mentioned earlier magnetized. You are asking the chassis and engine block to carry electrical loads and DC power requires to travel both ways, positive and negative. When you have a single point for all the grounds to the battery you are minimizing the chances to have a grounding issue. When you have a ground loop, most electronics do not behave properly because the reference to ground is different and can make a sensor output measure incorrectly. A friend of mine that builds chassis cars such as Top Sportsman and Comp Eliminator cars, had issues with some of the electronics on the new cars and he kept adding grounds. After he called me to ask about the issue, I suggested he used a single point ground. After doing so, all the issues went away. Just remember, in the early days, we had carburetors and points distributors, and later on, electronic distributors. Nowadays, the cars are loaded with all kinds of ignition boxes, EFI and electronics, therefore, the electrical power demands have increased exponentially and just adding additional or higher voltage batteries does not solve the issue. Many chassis cannot ground properly because of corrosion, paint, rubber isolators, etc... Although I do not support the product they sell, the link below has some great information and guidance about race car electrical systems. "https://moretraction.com/2018/12/31/2416/" |
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12-06-2020, 01:01 PM | #35 |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
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12-06-2020, 01:23 PM | #36 | |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
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On this guys car, I had a car last summer (Rich South) that had me look at his Holley system. I found a severe grounding problem. Its a long story but it also had a mismatch of "type verses set up" in the programming of the crank trigger. His car went from a 7 under car to a more than a second under car. Like yours, it didn't miss, didn't run bad, just did not run like the dyno said it was going to. I'm betting your going to find something like I did. Keep lookin
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12-06-2020, 01:29 PM | #37 | |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
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12-06-2020, 01:38 PM | #38 | |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
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power[/QUOTE] So the only part that remained in the car and was not tested on the dyno was the fuel system . Not sure what type of pump or regulator you have , but the entire fuel system is in question including the fuel cell and any filters . Also check that the fuel cell has an open vent so the cell doesn't get a vacuum in it while the pump is running . |
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12-06-2020, 03:04 PM | #39 |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
Had a similar situation as this when I first started in Super Stock in 2007 or 2008. Ended up being the fuel pump. We had a Barry Grant fuel pump and regulator on the car and switched over to the Magnafuel units and all the problems went away. Mine would pop/bang on the big end like an electrical miss when in reality it was lean because of the fuel system. I was running a QJ at the time also.
Last edited by Michael Compton; 12-06-2020 at 03:04 PM. Reason: update |
12-06-2020, 03:17 PM | #40 |
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Re: LOST 10mph AND ABOUT 6 TENTHS
Is the car down everywhere in the run or is the early part of the run still about the same?
Stan |
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