Best place to buy Rotella

[Rick J]

Another area that can get analysis paralysis.
Ring seal and rod bearings will tell you all you want to know.

[JP1738]

Originally Posted by Rick J

Another area that can get analysis paralysis.
Ring seal and rod bearings will tell you all you want to know.

Very true. I've been using the Rotella/Lucas Oil heavy duty oil stabilizer combo on the same rods, block, and crank for the last 9 years. Have yet to hurt or spin a bearing. The stocker/flat tappet cam has yet to show signs of weakness but I haven't made enough runs to justify the oil combo yet. Time will tell. Much appreciate all the input and opinions on this post though, I will definitely consider putting a better grade motor oil in my stocker, might even find a touch of hp going to a higher performance oil.

Originally Posted by jcw31

I have friends who race mini sprinters with 600 cc motorcycle engines , buzz then 12000 rpm every lap their engine builders recommend rotella 15w40 .
Just sayin.

Maybe because I’m told they use methanol? Would be my guess.

[jcw31]

yes they use methanol and to a previous reply they are 4 cycles not 2 strokes, but between the rpm and lots of laps it holds up well,and im not saying its right but it works and im sure they can use whatever they want .
I just dont understand the statement its diesel oil it cant work !

[Alan Roehrich]

I never said diesel oil can't work. I said diesel oil producers, who blend it, strongly recommended against using it in gasoline engines due to the higher operating RPM, and the possibility of foaming and aeration.

[Alan Roehrich]

Originally Posted by 1347

I am not sure where you got that detergents arent for race oil, but when I talked to Gibbs(driven) about using their BR30 in a race engine all the time, they recommended I don't because the break in oil has no detergent but their race oils do. That's why you get the separation in the K&P oil filter with BR30. I trust what they say

Not sure what you mean by separation, but I stopped using Driven because with every grade and type, both break in and race oils of various weights, we ended up with a ton of thick, grey, gelatinous slime in the bottom of the oil pan, regardless of which filter we used, the premium Delco, the Wix race filters, and K&N. It looked a lot like molybdenum disulfide paste. Can't say if it ever really hurt anything, but I certainly didn't care for it.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by JP1738

my stocker....... my engine builder prefers 30wt for his engines. .

C'mon man...

[Rick J]

Originally Posted by Alan Roehrich

Not sure what you mean by separation, but I stopped using Driven because with every grade and type, both break in and race oils of various weights, we ended up with a ton of thick, grey, gelatinous slime in the bottom of the oil pan, regardless of which filter we used, the premium Delco, the Wix race filters, and K&N. It looked a lot like molybdenum disulfide paste. Can't say if it ever really hurt anything, but I certainly didn't care for it.

Same reason I stopped using it.

[Steve Stasko]

Originally Posted by Alan Roehrich

Not sure what you mean by separation, but I stopped using Driven because with every grade and type, both break in and race oils of various weights, we ended up with a ton of thick, grey, gelatinous slime in the bottom of the oil pan, regardless of which filter we used, the premium Delco, the Wix race filters, and K&N. It looked a lot like molybdenum disulfide paste. Can't say if it ever really hurt anything, but I certainly didn't care for it.

I have had the same issue with VR1.

[RKelliher]

To jcw31, I never said the 600cc engine were 2 cycle. again why spend thousand on a motor and use oil not for race engines. your choice