JP1738's Stocker and S/G car

[Jrh5220]

Originally Posted by Bill Bogues

Have you ever compared aluminum and cast iron intakes on your stocker to see if there's any difference. Most everone I've talked to says Iron is faster but it's still hard to resist running something that's 20 lb's lighter on front end.

. Bill I tried two on the dyno at Trumble shop both were 5 to 7 hp less than the iron.

[Chipper Chapman]

You want to try an iron intake, the ?crowfoot? version seems to be the one to use

[JP1738]

Welp, looks like the stocker is going to be down for a while. Killed a new to me set of tires and completely sheared off an adjustable 4-link bar. I'm thankful the car stayed rubber side down and that I didn't blow a tire or lose the entire rear-end. Not sure when the bar broke, on the first pass or on the trailer on the way to Wilksboro Dragway. Either way my wagon is down for the count. I'll get it fixed and back going straight again before too long!

[Keith 944]

Zip ties and duct tape?..lol.

[Steve Grady]

May want to check for Binding throughout the rear suspension travel when you start putting it back together.

[340Cuda]

It may look worse in person but are you sure the tire is ruined?

[JP1738]

Originally Posted by 340Cuda

It may look worse in person but are you sure the tire is ruined?

It's pretty much destroyed. I have no hard data/evidence, but when I press my finger into the undamaged portion of the tire, there is a substantial amount of rigidity. When I press into the portion of the tire that rubbed, its like pressing a balloon animal.

When I get back to my shop again I'll snag a pic of the tire off the car, it's paper thin where it wore on the frame rail.

[Charles Stewart]

Originally Posted by Steve Grady

May want to check for Binding throughout the rear suspension travel when you start putting it back together.

May i suggest to look at the junction of the axle tube to the center section of your housing. You could find welds broken there which could also explain why your car lift the front driver side higher than the passenger side.

[JP1738]

Originally Posted by Charles Stewart

May i suggest to look at the junction of the axle tube to the center section of your housing. You could find welds broken there which could also explain why your car lift the front driver side higher than the passenger side.

The plan right now is to replace both 4-link double adjusters on both upper bars and completely re-setup the 4 link to a true neutral setting. That way I can rule out any binding or pos/neg preload that might have been introduced in the car. I will also check the housing, 4-link brackets, and torque-boxes for any warping or damage. Right now I'm on hold with all my cars because my main workhorse (my mazda) needs work desperately and the transmission in my truck welded all of it's forward clutched together. Even if I had a raceable car (0 for 2 right now), I have no way to get either of them to the race track for the next few weeks.