Stock Eliminator car choices
I am new to the Stock Eliminator game, and wanted to ask a question. Is it better to find a car closer to the lower end of the NHRA factor, or the larger end. Would a car closer to 11.00 be better to start with than a car closer to 11.99, just as an example. Or does it not even matter. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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You can adjust the weight to the bottom (11.00 in your example) so it doesn't matter. FYI, NHRA allows you to move up or down one class from the "natural" class the vehicle falls in. In each case of movement, you are still allowed to go to the lightest end of the class.
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Any way you cut it, you will spend more to go faster, just make sure to buy something you can afford, understand, and like to look at in the garage, or trailer. Your skill as a bracket racer and tuner, will have a lot more to do with your sucess than the speed of the car. Enjoy |
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Jeff is right, it doesn't really matter. |
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So if I wanted to run O stock, it doesn't give me any advantage to find a car close to the 15.00 factor versus a car that might be near the bottom with a 15.99 factor. It can all be manipulated with weight, to make up for the differences. Can I assume this is correct? Thanks for all the replies so far.
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That helps alot. Thanks.
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Just because a car fits a class doesn't mean it can run the numbers for that class. You have to be careful to pick a good combo or a class with few cars. Check out the records and class winners. Or you can find an untried combo thats way underfactored and kick butt. Good luck.
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I am looking at a 1994 Mustang GT with an auto. Any thoughts on that, or possible other suggestions?
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I don't think it fits your name of "Mopar Jeff"
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jeff i have you combo. only a 95 and there are a few around it will run under the index with a little work and parts are easy to find
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Do you have one for sale, or just a suggestion?
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no i just finished my car this year, and it took a little work and some help from some friends but it goes under, and i can bracket race with them, i will not win many heads up races or set the nat. record with this combo but schould be fun anyhow
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95's are classified in N, right? Do you run there, or move up or down? Any photos, tips/tricks, or advice you would care to share. Not being a Ford guy, I am not sure what's in store.
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You want a killer mustang go to the for sale section and look at the one Mark Yacavone has listed, its a killer. All you need to do is learn how to use it. You could not build this car for that money, it puts you in the ball game. I know Mark for years, he builds good combo's. This car has it all, you could even be a record holder from the get go. bp
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Mopar Jeff
I have a 1994 in O/SA, PM me and we can talk, I am in LA............ |
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U want a good O or P car look @ mine ... it's 4-sale turn key
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you want kool factor,, man kool factor something that people will say WHY WHY on earth wuold you do that, too that car.. and you look them in the eye, and say i'll have a nother bud please haha
that was my grandmoms car dude |
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all cars fit two classes perfectly... some may fit more
choose a car that will go 12.00, faster is better slow cars get **** on by NHRA with every rule change, and the one they will never change the redlight rule or you could just tear up $25,000 and get someone to come by every 2-3 weeks and kick you in the nuts...same feeling less travel expenses. jack mccarthy... 35 years of nut shots |
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Pick what you like to race with!
Why do the faster cars win more?? I like what someone said earlier in another post. It's mostly about judging the finish line. Slower cars, the driver is getting blurry snapshots of what's going on and the faster car drivers are getting the finish line view in a high definition movie format. Have Fun and Be Safe! |
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Correct, however there are also some deadly guys with those slow cars.
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I ran an O-P/SA wagon for some time. I must say it is fun getting spotted out by an AA or A car, however the finish line can be quite tuff some times.
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Yes, Jody Lang has won a few races and drives the finish line very well... Both national + divisional races... There are a few more, Larry Hodge, Kyle Riley, Tibor, etc.,
but mostly the faster car has a first red light advantage .... Yes, they also spend more money, like Isaac says pick your poison and have Fun.... Good Luck with your project... * PS, the Fulk car is a nice piece and goes fast ....You will spend years getting one built and running that fast.... |
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Part of the faster car being better is that if your slow car is off 5% and the fast car is iff 5% they will be off their dial less than you. Look at all the big dollar brackets. the winners keep getting faster all the time.
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Ahh!! Like the hunter and the hunted.
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It's hard to compare winning with fast cars vs. slow, when there are many more fast cars out there.
Some people would rather run in the 10's ,whether they win anything or not. It's more fun ,but a lot more expensive. The way I see it, monetarily speaking,...you're never going to come out on the plus side of the ledger, so why spend more than necessary. Unless, of course ,you've got it to piss away . If that's the case , just pick up a BB Camaro. |
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We run N/sa Dodge Aspen Wagon and N/sa Dodge Truck with 318 and 360 conbinations. Neither cost much.... 318 Short Block was $200. at swap meet. We believe it is as easy or easier to drive the finish with aconsistant slow car. If you disagree OK but please check Div. 7 Stock points you can win races with bottom class cars. As far as Heads UP check Nitro Joes Stats Wagon - -minus 1.22 truck 1.27 in vegas with head wind. PS we have spare wagon and truck For Sale your choice complete with stock (no Alum.) trans $ , 6,950.;)choice. (702) 563-9255
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If you have a sense of humor about you then build a slow,lower class stocker.I've only been in stock for 10 of the 32 years I've been racing and I thought I've lost every way possible,but every year I find new ways.
We're not in this to make money,most of us anyway,we're here to feed our ego's and make life long friends in our travels to different tracks.And of course eat well after the racing is over for the day. I take it very serious when I'm in the car but at the end of the day you just have to let go what happened that day,good or bad and just move on. I actually enjoy running a lower class car that's not supposed to be a performance car compared to the upper class cars,Camaros,Cudas,Mustangs.It's a challenge.Every now and then I collect a few round wins. After I lose it's over before I leave the track to go home. Just build what you like and can afford without breaking the bank.There are enough knowledgeable people on this website to steer you in the right direction. Probably my main focus is there's race money and there's house money.Never forget that. |
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Thought I would add my 2cents worth...Am involved with son's racing program we have 4 cars 2 super stockers ,2 stockers....ss/ma ssgt/ha j/sa u/sa... I enjoy leaving with front wheels off ground ,BUT I would rather drive u/sa only from point I can screw up first.....My theory has been with slow car no hooking issues, limited breakage,better slick budget. Disadvantage more critical of weather conditions,wind,elevation etc. Heavier vehicles to tow. Our last record holder u/sa weight 4430. just to break 14 second barrier. Most people do not realize it takes as much if not more effort to get slower cars to index. Unless you are Neil Smedley , Billy Nees just to name a couple. Hope this helps. DD
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