Stock Eliminator car choices

[mopar jeff]

I am new to the Stock Eliminator game, and wanted to ask a question. Is it better to find a car closer to the lower end of the NHRA factor, or the larger end. Would a car closer to 11.00 be better to start with than a car closer to 11.99, just as an example. Or does it not even matter. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[Jeff Lee]

You can adjust the weight to the bottom (11.00 in your example) so it doesn't matter. FYI, NHRA allows you to move up or down one class from the "natural" class the vehicle falls in. In each case of movement, you are still allowed to go to the lightest end of the class.

[Eric Merryfield]

Originally Posted by mopar jeff

I am new to the Stock Eliminator game, and wanted to ask a question. Is it better to find a car closer to the lower end of the NHRA factor, or the larger end. Would a car closer to 11.00 be better to start with than a car closer to 11.99, just as an example. Or does it not even matter. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

It all depends upon the classes, and how fast you are in relation to other cars in the class. IE my affordable H/S/I truck will more likely than not get smoked heads up in the NHRA, and its all up to the luck of the draw, but in the IHRA, its pretty obscure so heads up isn't as much as a thought.

Any way you cut it, you will spend more to go faster, just make sure to buy something you can afford, understand, and like to look at in the garage, or trailer.

Your skill as a bracket racer and tuner, will have a lot more to do with your sucess than the speed of the car.

Enjoy

[Eric Merryfield]

Originally Posted by mopar jeff

I am new to the Stock Eliminator game, and wanted to ask a question. Is it better to find a car closer to the lower end of the NHRA factor, or the larger end. Would a car closer to 11.00 be better to start with than a car closer to 11.99, just as an example. Or does it not even matter. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Oh, sorry, I misread it! For example my 70 challenger 383 is 10.90 something natural of F round it up to 11 flat for G, or down to 10.50 for F, from there it depends upon you competition in class and what you prefer how much ballast to add or remove.

Jeff is right, it doesn't really matter.

[mopar jeff]

So if I wanted to run O stock, it doesn't give me any advantage to find a car close to the 15.00 factor versus a car that might be near the bottom with a 15.99 factor. It can all be manipulated with weight, to make up for the differences. Can I assume this is correct? Thanks for all the replies so far.

[X-TECH MAN]

Originally Posted by mopar jeff

So if I wanted to run O stock, it doesn't give me any advantage to find a car close to the 15.00 factor versus a car that might be near the bottom with a 15.99 factor. It can all be manipulated with weight, to make up for the differences. Can I assume this is correct? Thanks for all the replies so far.

Correct.

[mopar jeff]

That helps alot. Thanks.

[Harry 6674]

Just because a car fits a class doesn't mean it can run the numbers for that class. You have to be careful to pick a good combo or a class with few cars. Check out the records and class winners. Or you can find an untried combo thats way underfactored and kick butt. Good luck.

[mopar jeff]

I am looking at a 1994 Mustang GT with an auto. Any thoughts on that, or possible other suggestions?

[Tim Kish]

I don't think it fits your name of "Mopar Jeff"