[KMachine]

Originally Posted by Paul Ceasrine

Sunnen CK-10,
What I should have stated,,,,,,,it made things a little easier,,,,,
than honing with a hand-held Craftsman drill,,,,especially on regular engine rebuilds.
And if the wrong machinist was operating the CK-10,,,,,,,,tapered cylinder walls,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

We followed the old rule,,,,,,,,if we were going .040 over,,,,,,,,
Bore the cylinder with a Rottler boring bar .034 over to get a proper
'square cylinder'......
and the final .006 were honed,,,,,,,,,
and don't forget the B-H-J block plate,,,,,,,,,
I think we used #AN-400 or AN-500 stones for the Sunnen Hone,,,,,
Extra-fine finish 400 grit,,,,or the 'N' series stones

Before the Sunnen CK-10, my father like many machinists,,,,,,used the old school
Sunnen portable honing stand,,,,,a Craftsman drill and the Sunnen AN-111 portable
hone,,,,,,,,,,,,,a nice finish and beautiful cross-hatch,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but what a mess with
that Sunnen Honing Oil,,,,,,,,oil soak-filled pants, shirt and shoes,,,,,,GEEZ

Thats how I did it. I couldn't wait to use my new rottler F2B. I was used to using a kwik-way deck mounted boring bar.
After about 2 years of using my rottler I went back to my kwik-way.

With the kwik-way I would square up the decks on a storm85B mill with the BHJ tooling and then mount the kwik-way on the deck and bore the clyinders

In 1997 I brought a RMC1000 boring mill and never looked back. Jenkins helped me make that choice.