Ray Allen versus Jack Werst '1970 SS/EA Showdown'

[Paul Ceasrine]

Sunnen CK-10,
What I should have stated,,,,,,,it made things a little easier,,,,,
than honing with a hand-held Craftsman drill,,,,especially on regular engine rebuilds.
And if the wrong machinist was operating the CK-10,,,,,,,,tapered cylinder walls,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

We followed the old rule,,,,,,,,if we were going .040 over,,,,,,,,
Bore the cylinder with a Rottler boring bar .034 over to get a proper
'square cylinder'......
and the final .006 were honed,,,,,,,,,
and don't forget the B-H-J block plate,,,,,,,,,
I think we used #AN-400 or AN-500 stones for the Sunnen Hone,,,,,
Extra-fine finish 400 grit,,,,or the 'N' series stones

Before the Sunnen CK-10, my father like many machinists,,,,,,used the old school
Sunnen portable honing stand,,,,,a Craftsman drill and the Sunnen AN-111 portable
hone,,,,,,,,,,,,,a nice finish and beautiful cross-hatch,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but what a mess with
that Sunnen Honing Oil,,,,,,,,oil soak-filled pants, shirt and shoes,,,,,,GEEZ

[X-TECH MAN]

Originally Posted by Paul Ceasrine

Sunnen CK-10,
What I should have stated,,,,,,,it made things a little easier,,,,,
than honing with a hand-held Craftsman drill,,,,especially on regular engine rebuilds.
And if the wrong machinist was operating the CK-10,,,,,,,,tapered cylinder walls,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

We followed the old rule,,,,,,,,if we were going .040 over,,,,,,,,
Bore the cylinder with a Rottler boring bar .034 over to get a proper
'square cylinder'......
and the final .006 were honed,,,,,,,,,
and don't forget the B-H-J block plate,,,,,,,,,
I think we used #AN-400 or AN-500 stones for the Sunnen Hone,,,,,
Extra-fine finish 400 grit,,,,or the 'N' series stones

Before the Sunnen CK-10, my father like many machinists,,,,,,used the old school
Sunnen portable honing stand,,,,,a Craftsman drill and the Sunnen AN-111 portable
hone,,,,,,,,,,,,,a nice finish and beautiful cross-hatch,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but what a mess with
that Sunnen Honing Oil,,,,,,,,oil soak-filled pants, shirt and shoes,,,,,,GEEZ

That honing stand kept you from hitting the main caps and chipping the honing stones......X's 2 on the mess.

[Paul Ceasrine]

Mr. X,,,,,

On hitting the main cap or block web,,,,,,,,,,,,,sometimes you still hit
those 'bastards',,,,,,,,,,man, my father would scream,,,,,,,
and them stones weren't cheap,,,,,,,,,

When the CK-10 first came out, the Sunnen Rep (Frank Stiemstress, sic) sold them like crazy,,,,,,,,,,
About $8000 for one, back in the early 70's.

[X-TECH MAN]

Originally Posted by Paul Ceasrine

Mr. X,,,,,

On hitting the main cap or block web,,,,,,,,,,,,,sometimes you still hit
those 'bastards',,,,,,,,,,man, my father would scream,,,,,,,
and them stones weren't cheap,,,,,,,,,

When the CK-10 first came out, the Sunnen Rep (Frank Stiemstress, sic) sold them like crazy,,,,,,,,,,
About $8000 for one, back in the early 70's.

Heh Heh yeah Ive chipped a few in my day to. In fact I still have my hone.

[Paul Ceasrine]

Back To Jack Werst and the 70' Superbird,,

Information from a Jack Werst article,,
1) The Superbird was an original 4-speed Hemi car.

2) In August 1970, the car underwent a 4-week preperation, to get ready to compete at the 70' Indy Nationals. It's primary goal, to specifically go after Ray Allen in the SS/EA class, and hopefully knock him out, so the other Mopar Super/Stockers would have an easier road to go in
S/S Eliminator.

3) According to the article, the Hemi engine installed in the Superbird
was a 'bit' bigger than stock. But an exact displacement was not
mentioned.

4) Modifications included;
*) a set back engine
*) JR Headers, w/special bends, required as the engine was set back)
*) wheels re-positioned
*) a 300 lb. tail wing
*) a 'super heavy' back window (1/2" thickness, double-glass)
*) lightened nose-piece (.018" thickness, 60% lighter than the standard nose-piece)
*) light sheet metal hood (.018" thickness, 60% lighter than the standard hood)
*) 'chemically engineered' doors and fenders (acid dipped)

[KMachine]

Originally Posted by Paul Ceasrine

Sunnen CK-10,
What I should have stated,,,,,,,it made things a little easier,,,,,
than honing with a hand-held Craftsman drill,,,,especially on regular engine rebuilds.
And if the wrong machinist was operating the CK-10,,,,,,,,tapered cylinder walls,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

We followed the old rule,,,,,,,,if we were going .040 over,,,,,,,,
Bore the cylinder with a Rottler boring bar .034 over to get a proper
'square cylinder'......
and the final .006 were honed,,,,,,,,,
and don't forget the B-H-J block plate,,,,,,,,,
I think we used #AN-400 or AN-500 stones for the Sunnen Hone,,,,,
Extra-fine finish 400 grit,,,,or the 'N' series stones

Before the Sunnen CK-10, my father like many machinists,,,,,,used the old school
Sunnen portable honing stand,,,,,a Craftsman drill and the Sunnen AN-111 portable
hone,,,,,,,,,,,,,a nice finish and beautiful cross-hatch,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but what a mess with
that Sunnen Honing Oil,,,,,,,,oil soak-filled pants, shirt and shoes,,,,,,GEEZ

Thats how I did it. I couldn't wait to use my new rottler F2B. I was used to using a kwik-way deck mounted boring bar.
After about 2 years of using my rottler I went back to my kwik-way.

With the kwik-way I would square up the decks on a storm85B mill with the BHJ tooling and then mount the kwik-way on the deck and bore the clyinders

In 1997 I brought a RMC1000 boring mill and never looked back. Jenkins helped me make that choice.