Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights

Kevin Panzino · 08-02-2013, 06:07 PM

Gents, how are all of you who shut the engine down at the traps keeping the powerglide alive?? Roller bearings? Run high fluid level?? Other tricks?? Pretty sure some of the recent glide issues I have been having are from this... Anybody run an oil pressure accumulator so that you dont have to kill the engine in the lights to keep oil pressure whilst braking hard??

Any and all input welcome.

Kevin

Dragsinger · 08-02-2013, 07:25 PM

what about shifting to neutral and let the engine idle

Kevin Panzino · 08-02-2013, 07:43 PM

Problem is I still loose engine oil pressure when I do that... Even with the trap door in the steff's pan and 5 quarts of oil. 6 quarts is Ok though...

Perhaps I need to restrict more oil from going 'upstairs'....

Or maybe running 6 quarts isnt really any power loss than running 5... Never did a back to back, but enough guys on here are running only 4 quarts, I figured there is something there....

Bobby Zlatkin · 08-02-2013, 07:46 PM

Shifting a powerglide into neutral in the lights can be very dangerous. It's very easy for it to slip into reverse if shift linkage isn't adjusted just right, and that will make car control very difficult. I was racing a guy in Gainsville several years (1985 bracket finals) ago and he lost control. Crashed in front of me then came across the track behind me and hit the other guardrail. They took him to Shands Hospital in a hellicopter as he really messed his ankle up bad..

1320racer · 08-02-2013, 08:31 PM

pushing the shifter into neutral in the lights with any trans other than one having a clean neutral is very dangerous and countless racers have lost their car and ended up in the hospital because of it.

Ed Wright · 08-02-2013, 08:49 PM

Clean neutral is the only way to go unless you want to run a lot of oil. Besides the oil pressure issue, I don't want me engine gearing down from 8500 or more RPM. I push mine in neutral and click it off in the lights. Clean neutral is the next position forward of high gear, no problem with putting it in Park. Park & normal Neutral is at the back.

Bill Baer · 08-02-2013, 11:23 PM

Unless you have aluminum rods leave it in hi gear.as far as the accumulator, it takes longer to lose oil pressure and longer to get it back too! I took mine off after one season.

Kevin Panzino · 08-02-2013, 11:49 PM

Guys, its a forward pattern powerglide, so there is no "clean neutral' valve body, nor a need for one... Yes I understand the implications of accidentally hitting reverse at trap speed. I have a very good reverse lockout shifter, which requires a second lever be pushed to engage reverse, I use nylon locknuts on my cable linkage, and I dont 'slam' it into nuetral, I lightly slide it forward.... All that is OK.

What I am wondering and asking about is how the guys who click it off in the traps are keeping the glide from damaging itself, when the engine stops and thus the front pump stops, so there is no forced trans fluid/oil flow through the assemblies at 8200 + RPM...

Bill, I had heard the same thing about the accumulator, but I thought it through, and you could arrange a check valve and orifice setup, such that when the engine starts the full line flow back to the accumulator is blocked by a check valve, but passes through a small orificed bypass line, so it charges very slowly and it wont cause a delay in building engine oil pressure. Now when you shut the engine down and the accumulator flow reverses back to the engine, it does so quickly through the full line size through the now open check valve....

1320racer · 08-03-2013, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin Panzino

Guys, its a forward pattern powerglide, so there is no "clean neutral' valve body, nor a need for one.

then you don't need to push it into neutral at the stripe.

Lots of monkey see monkey do for no good reason!

Alan Roehrich · 08-03-2013, 09:35 AM

Many people who run an accumulator run it through a ball valve in the hose. Close the ball valve before you shut the engine off. Open it when you crank the engine, and you have a pre oiler every time you start it. Mount a cable such as you'd use for a mechanical choke and connect it to the ball valve, and you can do it from the driver's seat.

08-02-2013, 06:07 PM	#1
Kevin Panzino Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 575 Likes: 298 Liked 747 Times in 136 Posts	Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Gents, how are all of you who shut the engine down at the traps keeping the powerglide alive?? Roller bearings? Run high fluid level?? Other tricks?? Pretty sure some of the recent glide issues I have been having are from this... Anybody run an oil pressure accumulator so that you dont have to kill the engine in the lights to keep oil pressure whilst braking hard?? Any and all input welcome. Kevin

08-02-2013, 07:25 PM	#2
Dragsinger VIP Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Liberty City [East Texas] Posts: 1,760 Likes: 5 Liked 99 Times in 60 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights what about shifting to neutral and let the engine idle __________________ Larry Woodfin 471W

08-02-2013, 07:43 PM	#3
Kevin Panzino Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 575 Likes: 298 Liked 747 Times in 136 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Problem is I still loose engine oil pressure when I do that... Even with the trap door in the steff's pan and 5 quarts of oil. 6 quarts is Ok though... Perhaps I need to restrict more oil from going 'upstairs'.... Or maybe running 6 quarts isnt really any power loss than running 5... Never did a back to back, but enough guys on here are running only 4 quarts, I figured there is something there....

08-02-2013, 07:46 PM	#4
Bobby Zlatkin Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mills River, NC Posts: 417 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Shifting a powerglide into neutral in the lights can be very dangerous. It's very easy for it to slip into reverse if shift linkage isn't adjusted just right, and that will make car control very difficult. I was racing a guy in Gainsville several years (1985 bracket finals) ago and he lost control. Crashed in front of me then came across the track behind me and hit the other guardrail. They took him to Shands Hospital in a hellicopter as he really messed his ankle up bad.. __________________ Bobby & Norene Zlatkin L/SA

08-02-2013, 08:31 PM	#5
1320racer VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,628 Likes: 160 Liked 759 Times in 379 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights pushing the shifter into neutral in the lights with any trans other than one having a clean neutral is very dangerous and countless racers have lost their car and ended up in the hospital because of it.

08-02-2013, 08:49 PM	#6
Ed Wright Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sand Springs, OK Posts: 8,132 Likes: 896 Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Clean neutral is the only way to go unless you want to run a lot of oil. Besides the oil pressure issue, I don't want me engine gearing down from 8500 or more RPM. I push mine in neutral and click it off in the lights. Clean neutral is the next position forward of high gear, no problem with putting it in Park. Park & normal Neutral is at the back. __________________ Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA

08-02-2013, 11:23 PM	#7
Bill Baer Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Nothern IL Posts: 596 Likes: 1 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Unless you have aluminum rods leave it in hi gear.as far as the accumulator, it takes longer to lose oil pressure and longer to get it back too! I took mine off after one season. __________________ Bill Baer 3391 SC, 339B SC, QR

08-02-2013, 11:49 PM	#8
Kevin Panzino Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 575 Likes: 298 Liked 747 Times in 136 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Guys, its a forward pattern powerglide, so there is no "clean neutral' valve body, nor a need for one... Yes I understand the implications of accidentally hitting reverse at trap speed. I have a very good reverse lockout shifter, which requires a second lever be pushed to engage reverse, I use nylon locknuts on my cable linkage, and I dont 'slam' it into nuetral, I lightly slide it forward.... All that is OK. What I am wondering and asking about is how the guys who click it off in the traps are keeping the glide from damaging itself, when the engine stops and thus the front pump stops, so there is no forced trans fluid/oil flow through the assemblies at 8200 + RPM... Bill, I had heard the same thing about the accumulator, but I thought it through, and you could arrange a check valve and orifice setup, such that when the engine starts the full line flow back to the accumulator is blocked by a check valve, but passes through a small orificed bypass line, so it charges very slowly and it wont cause a delay in building engine oil pressure. Now when you shut the engine down and the accumulator flow reverses back to the engine, it does so quickly through the full line size through the now open check valve....

08-03-2013, 09:35 AM	#10
Alan Roehrich Veteran Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 5,110 Likes: 1,570 Liked 1,810 Times in 412 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Many people who run an accumulator run it through a ball valve in the hose. Close the ball valve before you shut the engine off. Open it when you crank the engine, and you have a pre oiler every time you start it. Mount a cable such as you'd use for a mechanical choke and connect it to the ball valve, and you can do it from the driver's seat. __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S