Fuel Keep, Ice for heads and any other tips ?

[Chris "drooze" Wertman]

Ok Ive got a few questions I simply have no idea on. For the veterans and ones on here I look to for good info......

What is the purpose of icing the heads in teardown ? Is it for runner size / ccing ? I cannot imagine it actually makes a differenece so, is that what its for if not what is the purpose ?

In as much as a checking lifter is concerned is that something I have to supply ?

Also were running C-11 What can I expect fuel keep time to be on a Jug bought trackside ? Ive heard horror stories about failing fuel check and I was a wee bit worried about that at Norwalk, the Fuel we had was in the tank (yes really) and Jug from Indy.

Also in as much as Front Runner Pressure, I had been running 35, The night I ran the 10.59 I was at 29.5 however I wanted to air them but didnt have time. What is best for this and what is it based on ? I want to get the car airborne with the 2 step but am I looking for higher lower or is it simply a preference.

Our teardown is looking good so far everything right in line #1 and #3 were a little leaner than the rest but safe on EGT's by far. Ill trim those injectors seperate.

Cheers

Chris

[X-TECH MAN]

I can answer on the icing down the heads. IF you chamber and runner volumes are close and I mean very close then by icing down the head it will bring the temp. down quickly to ambiant temp. This will keep the alcohol (or whatever they are using) the tech crew uses to CC the chambers from expanding and therfore the chamber would not hold enouugh to be legal. The opposite is true when CCing the runners. The expansion would work in your favor but again it depends on how close you build the heads to NHRA specs Some guys build very close and remember all burettes may not be exactly the same. Allow a little extra room. .2 to .4 CCs will not make the car run any faster. Some I have checked in the past have been DEAD ON if you hold your mouth right.....lol. If they are not close then dont worry about it. Do not remove the spark plug (like some try to get away with) and stack washers under the plug to gain CCs if you type of plug uses a washer. The spark plug should be sealed with paint to the head anyway and the tech inspector will look for it. Doing so could get you DQed.
The tech crew should have thier own checking lifters. See what the other DP racers are doing. You should carry a valve spring compressor to remove the valves requested.
Someone else will have to answer the rest. Ive been out of it for about 10 years or so. Good luck.

[Ed Wright]

I have used C11 for three years now, never a problem wiht fuel check. I try to keep the jug out of the sun (may not matter) and the lid on tight. I've had it in the trailer for a couple of weeks between races and still goes right through fuel check.

I've run 45 psi in my front tires several times with no problems. If I need to back my lights down I let air out, usually the tire that will be on the inside of the turn off the track at the end.
I've used 25 psi a lot, not sure how low other guys go.

You oughta go across the scales every day when you are warming the car up before the first run. Get to the track early so you have time to get everything done.

[Jimi B]

This was going to be my next question. Who has checking lifters for a Mitsubishi motor? lol Also, I cant carry a cylinder head bench around with me to pull the springs off of a little dohc style head like that... The push on t handle keeper deals would work with stock springs, but not the springs that I am running. We tried last week to install with the t handle tool and it was a no go. Im sure I can make something to work with a conventional spring compressor, but just asking.

[B Aceves]

Originally Posted by Jimi B

This was going to be my next question. Who has checking lifters for a Mitsubishi motor? lol Also, I cant carry a cylinder head bench around with me to pull the springs off of a little dohc style head like that... The push on t handle keeper deals would work with stock springs, but not the springs that I am running. We tried last week to install with the t handle tool and it was a no go. Im sure I can make something to work with a conventional spring compressor, but just asking.

Jimi, Give Tim Smith a Calll at LSM they now make a very adjustable spring removal
tool that is very nice, Not sure if it will work on your application but call Tim and he might
be able to help you out...

Bob Aceves
#746 E/SA
A&M motorsports

[Kenny Wigington]

Keep your fuel in a dark color jug, like the dark blue ones. Get the ones that have an O ring in the cap, and store them always in the trailer, out of direct sun.

[LNorton]

Originally Posted by Chris "drooze" Wertman

Also were running C-11 What can I expect fuel keep time to be on a Jug bought trackside ? Ive heard horror stories about failing fuel check and I was a wee bit worried about that at Norwalk, the Fuel we had was in the tank (yes really) and Jug from Indy.

An easy fix for that would be to run Sunoco. But here is another solution. Take your fuel jug, preferrably full of fuel, tighten the vent and the cap and flip it upside down. If it leaks like hell then you will have a problem getting VP to keep very long in the jug. If it seals up, then you should have no problem whatsoever. The reason I say run Sunoco. I always run Purple in our car, and I mix 93 and Purple when we are bracket racing. Forgot to drain the fuel system and change it before Rockingham last year. Passed with the mix...

Originally Posted by Chris "drooze" Wertman

Also in as much as Front Runner Pressure, I had been running 35, The night I ran the 10.59 I was at 29.5 however I wanted to air them but didnt have time. What is best for this and what is it based on ? I want to get the car airborne with the 2 step but am I looking for higher lower or is it simply a preference.

Front tire pressure is all preference. It's just a way to adjust reaction time for us. I have had a 26" front runner anywhere between 18lbs and 45lbs with no problems. However I would recommend nothing below 25 lbs in them.

[Mike Croley]

Race fuel specs are very tight , and any variance at all can get you bounced . I suspect many times the reason a race fuel didn't pass tech is contamination . Be certain that you use dedicated containers ( preferably metal ) for your race fuel . If you use the container for any gasoline or fuel other than your race fuel , the traces left in that container will often be enough to get you bounced in tech .
Even the darkest color plastic jugs allow some sunlight in , so use metal cans and drums and keep them sealed tight and cool .

Mike Croley
dist. for Competition Race Fuels ( formerly Torco )

[Jack McCarthy]

drooze...ive never commented on a thread of yours, however this one i will. as a seasoned veteran of teardowns (class wins, and records) i will offer this advice :

1. make sure your stuff will pass at home in your barn... much better there than when it counts.
2. be prepared, have all stuff you need at hand, including new gaskets, timing light, etc... look like you intend to pass.
3. be polite, and ask questions whenever you need to including why / how it was checked you might learn something as to what they are looking for.
4. if something fails to check ask for one recheck, then if another tech guy is attending ask for a different guy to check ("with all due respect would it be ok if travis rechecks one more time please").
5. dont piss the tech guy off, likely hes as unhappy as you are, its late he would rather be at the hotel - he will find something to toss you for.
6. most tech guys are ok if you bring a cooler, beer is almost always ok you might need one... offer the tech guys a soda (or a beer especially when you pass).

good luck, dont worry they want you to pass (refer to rule 5)...

jack mccarthy
travis and wesley approved !!
20+ records / 20+ class champion
> only 2 dq's one valve spring pressure one duration - hey they dont check those anymore

[Ed Wright]

Very good advice.