Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzinhalfdozen
Art, I'll assume the cam sync lite blinks now? Do you mean it still doesn't start, or it starts and stalls when put into gear? I'd say if the coil is capable of jumping at 40,000 volts it's sufficient. So we're back to the basics, Air, Fuel, Spark. Perhaps we could try this test, hook your meter to the wires crank sensor wires @ the ECU, assuming the engine starts, set to AC voltage and start engine if possible raise RPM, the voltage should increase with rpm. The .4 volts AC seems pretty low to me however I'm sure different sensors can produce varying amounts of voltage. IF in fact the engine does start now you must have at least some trigger input to the ECU.By the way what supply voltage did you decide on for the cam sync? Also how much timing do you have ?
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It starts but still has no power.
At idle I run 26 degrees timing. I put a couple of sewing needles in the connector for the crank sensor. And started it up. I get 9.5 volts AC when running.
One thing I did notice was the timing was jumping a bit on cylinders 1 and 2 It was sort of missing. It would miss and the timing would jump.(only on those 2 cylinders though) I'm going to get my wife to hold the timing light and try to tell me what goes on when I put it in gear. I didn't change the supply voltage. Because it ran fine before and I don't want to get 10 miles from where I started. When I make a change I always try to bring it back to the start point, to see if the change worked.