Starting problem

[Mark Ugrich]

If both heads are grounded to the frame, and the battery negative is grounded to the frame, you should be O.K. Two batteries are not required.

[Run to Rund]

Make sure the starter mounting to the block is clean and free of paint. That is the ground for the starter itself!

[Bob Shaw]

Have you tried bypassing the neutral start switch?

[buzzinhalfdozen]

All good replies, have you checked voltage at the "S" terminal of the relay? Should have B+ there. As mentioned make sure the starter is grounded properly. BTW what is the battery voltage reading during your issue? Personally I've found voltage drop to be the cause with a slow crank, not normally for a no crank but it's worth checking. I like to have a ground from 1 starter bolt to the frame, just to be sure. Good luck. Joe

[Tom Goldman]

Like Joe said ,check voltage at the S terminal for drop.
Also dont rule out the starter relay itself.
I've had a hot start problem ,and the volt drop across the solenoid was 3 volts when it got hot ! .
I cut it open to see what the problem and was shocked by how cheap it was .
This was an Echlin, but it was made in China.
I now use a AMETEK /Prestolite metal case solenoid with silver contacts.
The p/n is 15-108 , it can sustain 200 amps continuous ,and 600 amps intermittent.
the photo shows what most Chinese relays look like inside , pretty poorly built for our applications.

[Dave Gantz]

As a side note, be sure to use plenty of solder when attaching lugs to cables. You don't wnat just enough to hold it together, you want enough to make all of the strands into one, effectively, making it harder for corrosion to intrude.

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Dave, also good advice. I will put the cable end in a vice test fit my cable then using a small torch I'll "fill" the cable end with solder about 1/4 way up then i'll push my cable into the solder and allow it to cool. Works great and you CANNOT pull the cable out,put a crimp in it a little shrink tube and you're set.

[Jeff Niceswanger]

Originally Posted by Tom Goldman

Like Joe said ,check voltage at the S terminal for drop.
Also dont rule out the starter relay itself.
I've had a hot start problem ,and the volt drop across the solenoid was 3 volts when it got hot ! .
I cut it open to see what the problem and was shocked by how cheap it was .
This was an Echlin, but it was made in China.
I now use a AMETEK /Prestolite metal case solenoid with silver contacts.
The p/n is 15-108 , it can sustain 200 amps continuous ,and 600 amps intermittent.
the photo shows what most Chinese relays look like inside , pretty poorly built for our applications.

Boy, that brings back memories. From 1974 to 1981 I worked for Essex Wire/United Technologies and the department we worked in made that exact switch.. 8800 of them per shift,2 shifts a day. 125 women and 4 guys. ( The guys were... 2 maintenance men and 2 material handers. I was one of the maintenance guys.)There were 2 lines. The FORD line, and the Aftermarket line. Whenever we would get a new piece of equipment, a riveter or such, we would put it in the Ford line and take the old one over and put it in the aftermarket. Ford inspectors were always in looking over the parts that we were making .We had press rooms and so forth that made all the copper washers etc. If Ford rejected it, we just used it in the aftermarket line. Unless it was totally junk of course then we were forced to trash can it. They set the finished product "test sets" at a more forgiving voltage in the aftermarket line so as to not have to piss with that line as much. Anybody that says OEM and aftermarket are the same? Maybe they are now, but back then you got what you paid for....
On a side note, all the expensive cars like Lincoln ects, headlight switches and relays got pure silver contacts, where the Sable ects would get a copper contact w/a silver "tip" on it...But the switch from the outside LOOKED identical...Only way you could tell the difference was the part #.
And its been Oh so many years, but I'm thinking that across the 2 main contacts while engaged @ 12 volts the voltage had to be .2 volts or less for that switch to be considered good...

The entire plant picked up and went to Mexico in the early 90's. At its high point there was 1500 people working there. Thanks for jogging my memory Tom, I had some good times in that place....

[63corvette]

Originally Posted by Tom Goldman

Like Joe said ,check voltage at the S terminal for drop.
Also dont rule out the starter relay itself.
I've had a hot start problem ,and the volt drop across the solenoid was 3 volts when it got hot ! .
I cut it open to see what the problem and was shocked by how cheap it was .
This was an Echlin, but it was made in China.
I now use a AMETEK /Prestolite metal case solenoid with silver contacts.
The p/n is 15-108 , it can sustain 200 amps continuous ,and 600 amps intermittent.
the photo shows what most Chinese relays look like inside , pretty poorly built for our applications.

Tom, can you tell me where you find the AMETEK./ Prestolite metal case solenoids?
I have tried a coupe of the major chain Auto Parts houses and they are not able to find it.
I started to send this in a PM but thought others might want to know the answer also if you answered it in the forums.
Thanks
Rick Cates

[Alex Denysenko]

i agree ground or poor solenoid just had a similar issue on our Ford class A motorhome

these are the only starter solenoids we use on our cars and trucks or sell any more even the Motorcrafts are now made in China.



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