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#1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN
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I did buy a complete Moser rear end from a guy recently, and he specifically noted to me the the original Moser studs were junk and he had replaced with ARP.
But I reiterate without knowing your wheel manufacturer that 110 is more than Weld recommends for 1/2" studs.
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S/ST 51 S/C 53 Last edited by Lenny5160; 06-29-2018 at 05:00 PM. |
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#2 |
Live Reporter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hickory, Ky
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Put big studs in and forget about it!
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
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#4 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
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I can still mount my stock SS wheels with the extended Wheel Studs. As for new studs. Mine would not stay at 85# after installing them. Re-Torqued them to 110# until the Torque Wrench indicated they were tight. Today taking previous advice mounted new M/T Front Runners and Slicks. Torqued rears to 100# and fronts to #85#. |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hickory, Ky
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My bad, I thought it was a problem on a race car.
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Verrry South Jersey
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#8 |
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Location: Florida
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Make sure that the lug nut shank isn't too long and bottoming out. Everything I've had has the shank about 1/8" shorter than the wheel center is thick. Gotta be careful with press-in studs that may have a slight "shoulder" sticking out.
Lug nut shank diameters can also vary. It surprised me when doing some searches on Summit's site. A little too small can be just enough to pound the stud to the breaking point. Make sure the holes in your wheels aren't worn or ovaled. I've been using 1/2" Moser studs on my CM for 18+ years without breakage. Axles assemblies were changed twice over the years and were still good. Just upgraded to lighter axles. The original axles I had didn't have the Moser decal, but had M/E welded into the register.
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LOCOMOTION Racing Last edited by Myron Piatek; 06-29-2018 at 05:23 PM. |
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