Hooking up an A Body Mopar

X-TECH MAN · 04-28-2009, 07:18 PM

OK Bill......Im no pro but from what I know it is the cam that is causing the varience in boost. I would think that a cam with 112 centerline with a little more duration @ .050. Something around 230 degrees on the intale and 240 on the exhaust. The blower calms the cam down and will make it run fairly smooth. . When you go to a 402-408 inch piece you will need more cam. Larger engine needs more duration (air flow) because the cubic inches makes the cam think its smaller. The heads (Magnum) are OK but need some work. The exhaust is better (almost 30 %) than the old LA style head. Ive done quite a bit of playing with the 360 Magnum style heads in crate motored stockers and bracket cars. Also with all that instant torque it might hook better and the chassis will work better with the 4:10 gear. Im not an expert by far but just from what I have found over the years, In case a blower is not always a blower I can only say Ive worked on the DRAW THRU type and not the blow thru versions. Terry

bill dedman · 04-28-2009, 08:51 PM

Thanks, Terry. I do appreciate the time you took to think that out and write it.

I'm no expert either, and I hear what you're saying about the duration. I don't know much at all about turbochargers, but every Saturday I go to breakfast with a bunch of guys (8-10) who race Grand Nationals and they all have cams in the 210-214-degrees @ .050" range, even the ones who run high tens. Some have lobe-center separations as high as 116 degrees. Maybe that's a turbo thing, I dunno; as I said, I am no expert, but I know you're certainly right about a bigger engine needing more cam. This cam will never do for the stroker motor. Some of those new EQ heads would help a lot, too...

Is there a bigger money pit anywhere, than a drag car?????????????????????????????

For now, I am cash-flow limited and will get the Moser axles ($445.00) and some better slicks (another $400) and bolt in that 4.10 and go racing. If I can't run some 11.30s, shame on me!!!

Oh; I have a big U-joint driveshaft in the works, too... I still have the small U-joints in the one I've been using and I feel like I'm living on borrowed time... LOL!

X-TECH MAN · 04-29-2009, 04:45 AM

Since your not limited to rules you should try the Edelbrock Alum. Magnum heads when $$$$ is avaliable. They already have 2.02 intake valves, lighter weight, use chevy valves and rocker parts and flow pretty good out of the box. Just be sure to check the C.C.s. They are not even close out of the box in that dept. In the long run they are cheaper than modifying the iron heads. We had to use a larger drive shaft also (3720+ lbs). Used the larger joints and a 3 1/2 shaft. Never lost another one. Again Im not that up on turbo engines but Ive heard they are camed differently than a blower engine but boost is boost. It just comes in at a different RPM range. Food for thought until someone who really knows could help you out. Terry

bill dedman · 04-29-2009, 02:34 PM

Terry,

I'm not limited by rules, but I AM limited by $$$$ and the EQ heads flow about as much as the Edelbrocks for about half the price. The reason the stock heads are on there is that I am always cash-poor, it seems, and I have to do this thing one step at a time... being retired, and with a disabled wife who needs 24/7 care, I can't just go out and get a job to make money for this little pissant race car project. So, I have to do what I can, when I can... I'm sure you understand.

I've got a 4" crank and a new set of rods for it... just need a new set of reverse-deflector, 8:1, forged, J-E pistons, so the piggy-bank is IN OPERATION, but there again, it would be an exercise in futility to put the long arm in without a better set of heads.... so, I decided to try to get it hooked up, first. I'll build the big motor next year, with any luck.

There's no end to this... is there? LOL!!! After doing it since 1955, you'd think I'd learn, eventually...

I saw a bumper sticker on the back of a trailer once that said "CAUTION; THIS TRAILER CONTAINS A DISEASE FOR WHICH THERE IN NO CURE." There was an NHRA decal beside it... LOL!

Bill

04-28-2009, 07:18 PM	#1
X-TECH MAN Banned Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Lake Placid, Florida Posts: 3,203 Likes: 1,047 Liked 235 Times in 110 Posts	Re: Hooking up an A Body Mopar OK Bill......Im no pro but from what I know it is the cam that is causing the varience in boost. I would think that a cam with 112 centerline with a little more duration @ .050. Something around 230 degrees on the intale and 240 on the exhaust. The blower calms the cam down and will make it run fairly smooth. . When you go to a 402-408 inch piece you will need more cam. Larger engine needs more duration (air flow) because the cubic inches makes the cam think its smaller. The heads (Magnum) are OK but need some work. The exhaust is better (almost 30 %) than the old LA style head. Ive done quite a bit of playing with the 360 Magnum style heads in crate motored stockers and bracket cars. Also with all that instant torque it might hook better and the chassis will work better with the 4:10 gear. Im not an expert by far but just from what I have found over the years, In case a blower is not always a blower I can only say Ive worked on the DRAW THRU type and not the blow thru versions. Terry Last edited by X-TECH MAN; 04-28-2009 at 07:23 PM.

04-28-2009, 08:51 PM	#2
bill dedman VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Conway, AR Posts: 1,739 Likes: 0 Liked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Re: Hooking up an A Body Mopar Thanks, Terry. I do appreciate the time you took to think that out and write it. I'm no expert either, and I hear what you're saying about the duration. I don't know much at all about turbochargers, but every Saturday I go to breakfast with a bunch of guys (8-10) who race Grand Nationals and they all have cams in the 210-214-degrees @ .050" range, even the ones who run high tens. Some have lobe-center separations as high as 116 degrees. Maybe that's a turbo thing, I dunno; as I said, I am no expert, but I know you're certainly right about a bigger engine needing more cam. This cam will never do for the stroker motor. Some of those new EQ heads would help a lot, too... Is there a bigger money pit anywhere, than a drag car????????????????????????????? For now, I am cash-flow limited and will get the Moser axles ($445.00) and some better slicks (another $400) and bolt in that 4.10 and go racing. If I can't run some 11.30s, shame on me!!! Oh; I have a big U-joint driveshaft in the works, too... I still have the small U-joints in the one I've been using and I feel like I'm living on borrowed time... LOL! __________________ Bill

04-29-2009, 04:45 AM	#3
X-TECH MAN Banned Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Lake Placid, Florida Posts: 3,203 Likes: 1,047 Liked 235 Times in 110 Posts	Re: Hooking up an A Body Mopar Since your not limited to rules you should try the Edelbrock Alum. Magnum heads when $$$$ is avaliable. They already have 2.02 intake valves, lighter weight, use chevy valves and rocker parts and flow pretty good out of the box. Just be sure to check the C.C.s. They are not even close out of the box in that dept. In the long run they are cheaper than modifying the iron heads. We had to use a larger drive shaft also (3720+ lbs). Used the larger joints and a 3 1/2 shaft. Never lost another one. Again Im not that up on turbo engines but Ive heard they are camed differently than a blower engine but boost is boost. It just comes in at a different RPM range. Food for thought until someone who really knows could help you out. Terry

04-29-2009, 02:34 PM	#4
bill dedman VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Conway, AR Posts: 1,739 Likes: 0 Liked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Re: Hooking up an A Body Mopar Terry, I'm not limited by rules, but I AM limited by $$$$ and the EQ heads flow about as much as the Edelbrocks for about half the price. The reason the stock heads are on there is that I am always cash-poor, it seems, and I have to do this thing one step at a time... being retired, and with a disabled wife who needs 24/7 care, I can't just go out and get a job to make money for this little pissant race car project. So, I have to do what I can, when I can... I'm sure you understand. I've got a 4" crank and a new set of rods for it... just need a new set of reverse-deflector, 8:1, forged, J-E pistons, so the piggy-bank is IN OPERATION, but there again, it would be an exercise in futility to put the long arm in without a better set of heads.... so, I decided to try to get it hooked up, first. I'll build the big motor next year, with any luck. There's no end to this... is there? LOL!!! After doing it since 1955, you'd think I'd learn, eventually... I saw a bumper sticker on the back of a trailer once that said "CAUTION; THIS TRAILER CONTAINS A DISEASE FOR WHICH THERE IN NO CURE." There was an NHRA decal beside it... LOL! Bill __________________ Bill