front tire size worth in delay

[treessavoy]

I'm a little confused (not an uncommon state) but why would a tall tire slow reaction time?

Stock drivers are known for the quickest and consistent reaction times and most of us run tall tires.

Not a slam against you electronic guys.

[THE LEGEND]

Mark,
Why would you think he is a .90 racer. Even if he is what difference should it make the driver has a problem.

913,
I think the tire will help but not very much. The problem you will run into is it may help a race or two, then you will get comfortable and start going red again. I bottom bulbed for over 20 years. When the Led's came out it screwed me up. I fought it for 5 years. I built 3 different cars. Different e.t. range. The problem always came back. I won a lot of races and finished high in the points too, but the problem always came back. Not saying I gave up but I moved on. I found a home in Delay Box/.90 racing for now. I may come back one day, but will have to build a "BETTER MOUSE TRAP"
Some things we tried on the last 2 cars.
Tires-front and rear
RPM
Blocking
Timing
Rear Gears
Transmissions
Trans gear ratios
Convertors(Lots of them)
Headers
Header collectors
Traction bars
Weight (LOTS OF IT)
Weight in different locations
Mufflers
DeTune the motor which worked somewhat but did effect consistancy and then when you get a heads up you are out to lunch.
De Tune- with Cam Timing, different oil, More oil, We ran a holley and tried it on 2 bbl. etc, etc, etc,

We were trying to kill the initial move of the car but keep it fast and consistent.

Good Luck.
Chip Johnson

[Joe Sprint Bros]

Experiment with lowering air pressure in front tires, lowering rpm a little at time.

[Mark Yacavone]

[QUOTE=THE LEGEND;131331]Mark,

Why would you think he is a .90 racer. Even if he is what difference should it make the driver has a problem.

Chip, because he said he said he was ABLE to go red. That sounded like .90 talk.
Anybody can go red on a full tree.
Nothing personal. Just trying to get him in the right place.

I know what you mean about the LED lights. I wasn't "the driver " when they first came out.
Then I built a car with an adjustable button. I was trying to get away from deep staging with the autostart. I'd adjust the button and then end up right back where I was , usually red. No real explanation for it.
I've since gone back to deep staging and a solenoid to set the rpm at the last second. I seem to be on the right track with that.

[Charlie Yannetti]

I'm with Mark on this one.... but I am OL' SKOOL also.... drop RPM.... and/or drop tire pressure.... but as stated earlier, it will probably be a race to race thing as you get used to your changes.... I used to have a good crew guy who would make the changes without me knowing, and I would just do my normal thing.... worked great until I finally gave in to electronics.....

[Everett Vassar]

" still feel it is best to find a "spot" you like to leave at and you are consistent at, then work on the car to use that "spot"."

I agree wit this 100 percent L.E.D.s caused me to sell my Duster after 17yrs Used to footbrake with 13" front tires on the old bulbs.440 Dusters with fenderwell headers have major tire clearance issues and chassis headers will really slow them down and cause other issues. I had a new set of Hooker S/C,s (over $500) modified (another 300) to get a taller front tire.Still could only get 25" Still red lighting unless I sit on the bottom bulb.Then I was just terrible. I could have fixed it with a glide I guess at even more expense.I came on here and you guys helped all you could.-----heres how I addressed the problem--with a 81 Malibu wagon! Had to fix the motor and come up with some parts but its about 2-3 tenths away I look forward to the day I can slide the 28" tire on there if needed.

[SmallBlockNova]

Originally Posted by treessavoy

I'm a little confused (not an uncommon state) but why would a tall tire slow reaction time?

You get a longer "run" at the beam before you knock the stage light out and start the clocks..

[treessavoy]

Originally Posted by SmallBlockNova

You get a longer "run" at the beam before you knock the stage light out and start the clocks..

True you get a longer run but the roll out distance is the same, the taller the tire the sooner you can leave on the tree.

Small tire, big tire you still have to roll that 9 inches to break the beam.

[SmallBlockNova]

Originally Posted by treessavoy

True you get a longer run but the roll out distance is the same, the taller the tire the sooner you can leave on the tree.

Small tire, big tire you still have to roll that 9 inches to break the beam.

The taller tire is able to move more distance before the beam is broken, thus resulting in quicker ET's yet slower RT's. Think about it...There's still 6 inches between the stage beams. If you take a tire that is 26" in diameter and center it on those beams, then roll it and write down the distance it rolled before the beam was broken...Then do the same with a 28" tire...The 28" tire will roll more distance before it breaks the beam.

[Michael Beard]

Hatch is correct. Given 'typical' and equivalent tire pressures, a 2" diameter change will probably net you .010-.015. I went the other way a number of years ago, trying to deal with the very loose rollout at Quaker City. I went from a 25-26" tall street type tire to a 23" frontrunner, and was surprised to find that I only gained about .015 in r/t.

Originally Posted by treessavoy

True you get a longer run but the roll out distance is the same, the taller the tire the sooner you can leave on the tree.

Small tire, big tire you still have to roll that 9 inches to break the beam.

What you are saying is only applicable if you're deep-staging, in which case you have part of the tire *in front of* of the stage beam, with the remainder being between the stage and pre-stage beams. In regular staging, the 'extra' tire is still *behind* the pre-stage beam, and that too needs to clear the stage beam to stop the r/t clock.

Much of this is discussed in my Guide to Bracket Racing, at www.staginglight.com/guide/