Differences in Jericos

Chad Rhodes · 12-28-2009, 10:00 PM

I see DR4, DR4-4, and Y2K. I understand the Y2K lightweight, but whats different in the DR4 and the DR4-4

Run to Rund · 12-28-2009, 10:17 PM

You can find some details at www.jericoperformance.com

The DR4-4 is an upgrade over the DR4 with bigger components for more strength and about $1200 cost increase. Beyond that, with the DR4 you can upgrade to a billet front bearing retainer, the 6.5 lb heavier HD aluminum case, roller tailshaft bearing instead of bushing. You can pick drag race sliders, or to allow downshifting, the road race sliders. You can get early Muncie length, or 3" longer than that (shorter driveshaft = higher critical speed).

Chad Rhodes · 12-28-2009, 10:30 PM

so the DR4 with a bearing support and case would be just fine for a small block stocker?

Bob Gullett · 12-28-2009, 11:22 PM

I have both the DR4 and the DR4-4. I don't think ones faster or stronger than the other. The only thing is that in the DR4 when I got it from Jerico, I ordered it with the Nascar aluminum case and the roller tail housing. Behind a small block stocker the DR4 will be fine but if you are ordering a new one, I would order the DR4-4 because of all the options already built into it. Also make make sure you use the proper clutch.

Rory McNeil · 12-28-2009, 11:49 PM

I have 2 older plain old DR4`s, top & bottom opening mag cases, slip yoke bushings, nothing fancy. The first one I bought was in a 8 second SS/AM Corvette for several years before I bought it, other than what changes were needed to bolt it to my 428 Ford in my bracket car (3100 lbs, 10.0 @132mph, 1.29 60 foot) I never hurt anything in 9 years of racing, until I broke 3rd gear earlier this year ($300.00 to repair). It`s working fine still, with all the same sliders & "stars" that came with it.
My second DR4 I bought off this site, and has been performing flawlessly in my M/S Mustang for the past 3 years. I would thnk that a basic DR4 would be more than adequate for a small block Stocker, but if you can swing the extra dough, the upgrades couldn`t hurt.

james schaechter · 12-29-2009, 05:51 AM

In a small block stocker Most wide gear versions will do. Keep in mind that there are some early models still in service that have "narrow" gears and some other differences that might not stand out to someone not familar with them. The biggest problem with the narrow gear trans with a small block stocker is not breakage, but the fact that Jerico may not have replacement gears anymore for them. Some of the early wide gear transmissions also have a narrow snap ring on the input shaft that can pop off and cause some carnage. I would stay away from these early models if you plan on racing with one.
That being said their have been really good dr4s out there for probably 15 years or more that have the wide gears and thick snap ring. They work great. I have raced these for many years and have never had a new one.I have had 7 or 8 different ones. I always start my research on any used ones by calling Jerico and giving them the number stamped on the case. They are very good at telling you the type of trans it started out as. A lot could change since it left Jerico, but at least you know if it was a narrow or wide gear and what snap ring and bearing size it has. I think those are critical items.

If you run a SSer or a Big Block car with one, I would certainly encourage one to usea wide gear big front bearing model with the top loader case at least. It is 3 lbs heaver, but probably worth it. DR4-4 is cool, but I don't know if it is necessary for most applications.

Of course, the soft clutch is a must with any of this.

Rod Greene · 12-29-2009, 10:24 AM

I have one of those narrow gear Jericos. I have had it since 1988. I couldn't tell you how many runs it has on it thousands I suppose. It has always been behind a 340 in a car between 3100 - 3500 lbs. It has been hooked up to old clutch technology remember the Ram 3 pad disc with a 2800lb pressure plate to one of Youngbloods 10 inchers. It has set a few records and has never broken anything. It still has the original bearings in it.
2 yrs ago you could still get different gears for it. Jerico builds a good piece the newer stuff probably is better, but the old stuff still works.

Chad Rhodes · 12-29-2009, 10:36 AM

lots of good info guys. Dad and I are considering building a small block stick car to get away from some of the factory race cars. That and dad would really rather drive a stick anyway. I was just wondering if the regular DR4 was up to the task, it seems that it is. Not trying to do it cheap, but these days money is an issue.

Chris Hill · 12-29-2009, 11:37 AM

Just curious, but how much does a used Jerico go for and soft clutch set-up?

Run to Rund · 12-29-2009, 12:00 PM

You can use the regular Turbo 400 32 spline output to driveshaft yoke with a Jerico but the splines are actually a little different in shape. Mark Williams makes special Jerico yokes that fit a little more snug. MW also can make the hardened yoke at 1.888" OD for the roller tailhousing bearing instead of 1.885-1.886" for the bushing. The forged yoke costs about $220.

12-28-2009, 10:00 PM	#1
Chad Rhodes VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Where the Green Grass Grows, AL Posts: 2,375 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Differences in Jericos I see DR4, DR4-4, and Y2K. I understand the Y2K lightweight, but whats different in the DR4 and the DR4-4 __________________ Chad Rhodes 2113 I/SA

12-28-2009, 10:17 PM	#2
Run to Rund Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 583 Likes: 8 Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos You can find some details at www.jericoperformance.com The DR4-4 is an upgrade over the DR4 with bigger components for more strength and about $1200 cost increase. Beyond that, with the DR4 you can upgrade to a billet front bearing retainer, the 6.5 lb heavier HD aluminum case, roller tailshaft bearing instead of bushing. You can pick drag race sliders, or to allow downshifting, the road race sliders. You can get early Muncie length, or 3" longer than that (shorter driveshaft = higher critical speed).

12-28-2009, 10:30 PM	#3
Chad Rhodes VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Where the Green Grass Grows, AL Posts: 2,375 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos so the DR4 with a bearing support and case would be just fine for a small block stocker? __________________ Chad Rhodes 2113 I/SA

12-28-2009, 11:22 PM	#4
Bob Gullett VIP Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 1,105 Likes: 57 Liked 497 Times in 115 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos I have both the DR4 and the DR4-4. I don't think ones faster or stronger than the other. The only thing is that in the DR4 when I got it from Jerico, I ordered it with the Nascar aluminum case and the roller tail housing. Behind a small block stocker the DR4 will be fine but if you are ordering a new one, I would order the DR4-4 because of all the options already built into it. Also make make sure you use the proper clutch. __________________ 68 Chevy11 327 F/S

12-28-2009, 11:49 PM	#5
Rory McNeil VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia Posts: 1,311 Likes: 316 Liked 1,103 Times in 301 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos I have 2 older plain old DR4`s, top & bottom opening mag cases, slip yoke bushings, nothing fancy. The first one I bought was in a 8 second SS/AM Corvette for several years before I bought it, other than what changes were needed to bolt it to my 428 Ford in my bracket car (3100 lbs, 10.0 @132mph, 1.29 60 foot) I never hurt anything in 9 years of racing, until I broke 3rd gear earlier this year ($300.00 to repair). It`s working fine still, with all the same sliders & "stars" that came with it. My second DR4 I bought off this site, and has been performing flawlessly in my M/S Mustang for the past 3 years. I would thnk that a basic DR4 would be more than adequate for a small block Stocker, but if you can swing the extra dough, the upgrades couldn`t hurt. __________________ NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang

12-29-2009, 05:51 AM	#6
james schaechter VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Cumming GA Posts: 1,988 Likes: 1,282 Liked 1,428 Times in 296 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos In a small block stocker Most wide gear versions will do. Keep in mind that there are some early models still in service that have "narrow" gears and some other differences that might not stand out to someone not familar with them. The biggest problem with the narrow gear trans with a small block stocker is not breakage, but the fact that Jerico may not have replacement gears anymore for them. Some of the early wide gear transmissions also have a narrow snap ring on the input shaft that can pop off and cause some carnage. I would stay away from these early models if you plan on racing with one. That being said their have been really good dr4s out there for probably 15 years or more that have the wide gears and thick snap ring. They work great. I have raced these for many years and have never had a new one.I have had 7 or 8 different ones. I always start my research on any used ones by calling Jerico and giving them the number stamped on the case. They are very good at telling you the type of trans it started out as. A lot could change since it left Jerico, but at least you know if it was a narrow or wide gear and what snap ring and bearing size it has. I think those are critical items. If you run a SSer or a Big Block car with one, I would certainly encourage one to usea wide gear big front bearing model with the top loader case at least. It is 3 lbs heaver, but probably worth it. DR4-4 is cool, but I don't know if it is necessary for most applications. Of course, the soft clutch is a must with any of this. __________________ James Schaechter 3163 STK Last edited by james schaechter; 12-29-2009 at 05:54 AM.

12-29-2009, 10:24 AM	#7
Rod Greene Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: TN Posts: 530 Likes: 420 Liked 242 Times in 81 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos I have one of those narrow gear Jericos. I have had it since 1988. I couldn't tell you how many runs it has on it thousands I suppose. It has always been behind a 340 in a car between 3100 - 3500 lbs. It has been hooked up to old clutch technology remember the Ram 3 pad disc with a 2800lb pressure plate to one of Youngbloods 10 inchers. It has set a few records and has never broken anything. It still has the original bearings in it. 2 yrs ago you could still get different gears for it. Jerico builds a good piece the newer stuff probably is better, but the old stuff still works. __________________ Rod Greene Real men shift for them selves. Slowly working on TA Challenger for D,E/S and a 72 Challenger for SS/K, L as if I don't have enough other projects.

12-29-2009, 10:36 AM	#8
Chad Rhodes VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Where the Green Grass Grows, AL Posts: 2,375 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos lots of good info guys. Dad and I are considering building a small block stick car to get away from some of the factory race cars. That and dad would really rather drive a stick anyway. I was just wondering if the regular DR4 was up to the task, it seems that it is. Not trying to do it cheap, but these days money is an issue. __________________ Chad Rhodes 2113 I/SA

12-29-2009, 11:37 AM	#9
Chris Hill Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Posts: 655 Likes: 8 Liked 244 Times in 26 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos Just curious, but how much does a used Jerico go for and soft clutch set-up? __________________ Chris Hill https://ihmusedparts.com

12-29-2009, 12:00 PM	#10
Run to Rund Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 583 Likes: 8 Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts	Re: Differences in Jericos You can use the regular Turbo 400 32 spline output to driveshaft yoke with a Jerico but the splines are actually a little different in shape. Mark Williams makes special Jerico yokes that fit a little more snug. MW also can make the hardened yoke at 1.888" OD for the roller tailhousing bearing instead of 1.885-1.886" for the bushing. The forged yoke costs about $220.