Sleeveing a block

Alan Roehrich · 06-23-2010, 06:15 PM

If it is legal, and they are dimensionally the same, (I think they are dimensionally the same and it's legal, but I haven't looked close at small block Oldsmobiles in Stock) I'd say sleeving a 350 down to make it a 307 would work well. I like the Melling flanged sleeves, yes, they're more expensive, and more expensive to put in, but they do not move. They're made out of the same material as severe duty diesel sleeves. I'd piour it up to the water pump holes, put the sleeves in, and then do the rest of the work. If you're running a hydraulic roller and 0.921" lifters, don't forget you'll have to have the lifter bores done.

I'd never put solid mounts on an Oldsmobile, ever. Rubber or urethane and a torque limiter is way better, the Oldsmobile blocks just aren't rugged enough. I don't really like solid mounts anyway, but especially never on an Oldsmobile.

Jeff Lee · 06-23-2010, 06:31 PM

Kip Martin tells a story that a Ford engine was on a dyno, running. I think it was an automotive class and I can't remember if it was SBF or FE Ford. But he takes a breaker bar between the motor mount and applies pressure to the block. The engine slows down. A lot.
Just goes to show you cast iron isn't as tuff as you think!

* besides the normal align bore / hone to the mains, I would recommend the same to the cam tunnel. And always make sure came is straight.
I can hear the cash register now...

06-23-2010, 06:15 PM	#1
Alan Roehrich Veteran Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 5,130 Likes: 1,589 Liked 1,898 Times in 426 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block If it is legal, and they are dimensionally the same, (I think they are dimensionally the same and it's legal, but I haven't looked close at small block Oldsmobiles in Stock) I'd say sleeving a 350 down to make it a 307 would work well. I like the Melling flanged sleeves, yes, they're more expensive, and more expensive to put in, but they do not move. They're made out of the same material as severe duty diesel sleeves. I'd piour it up to the water pump holes, put the sleeves in, and then do the rest of the work. If you're running a hydraulic roller and 0.921" lifters, don't forget you'll have to have the lifter bores done. I'd never put solid mounts on an Oldsmobile, ever. Rubber or urethane and a torque limiter is way better, the Oldsmobile blocks just aren't rugged enough. I don't really like solid mounts anyway, but especially never on an Oldsmobile. __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S

06-23-2010, 06:31 PM	#2
Jeff Lee VIP Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Anthem, Arizona Posts: 2,766 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Sleeveing a block Kip Martin tells a story that a Ford engine was on a dyno, running. I think it was an automotive class and I can't remember if it was SBF or FE Ford. But he takes a breaker bar between the motor mount and applies pressure to the block. The engine slows down. A lot. Just goes to show you cast iron isn't as tuff as you think! * besides the normal align bore / hone to the mains, I would recommend the same to the cam tunnel. And always make sure came is straight. I can hear the cash register now... __________________ Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX