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Old 06-25-2010, 08:05 PM   #1
JRyan
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

Alan,

LA Sleeves is where I got mine. Not cheap, but they don't require any super trick cylinder wall finishes to get them to seal. The non-windowed block with these sleeves is plenty strong even for the 3550 lb. Superstocker with bumper draggin' wheelies, so you shouldn't have a problem as long as your chassis doesn't flex. Good luck!

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Old 06-26-2010, 01:31 PM   #2
Daran Summerton
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

Is this the roller cam motor? Either way 307's don't need anything done to them. You have a problem. The old wagon (roller motor) is still together after 8 years and can still set the record at will. May just start fresh with a known good virgin core motor. If your not running the roller cam motor I reccommend you do at this point. Call with any questions Daran
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:43 AM   #3
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

The 403 guys on ROP generally run a main cap girdle to help hold the windowed main block together. J&S and others have girdles. I suspect the DX block is overkill and very heavy, but a 350 block sleeved might be best. Of course, a block with .921 lifters would help with a radical profile cam vs. the .842" lifter blocks.
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:29 PM   #4
Jeff Lee
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

But lifter bores must be for the make/year claimed.
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Old 06-27-2010, 02:20 PM   #5
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

Quote:
Originally Posted by Run to Rund View Post
The 403 guys on ROP generally run a main cap girdle to help hold the windowed main block together. J&S and others have girdles. I suspect the DX block is overkill and very heavy, but a 350 block sleeved might be best. Of course, a block with .921 lifters would help with a radical profile cam vs. the .842" lifter blocks.
Jeff is correct, you have to run the OEM lifter diameter. You cannot modify the oil pan externally in Stock Eliminator, therefore, you cannot run the commercial girdle available for Olds engines. The best bet is like Jerry and other have done; sleeve an early high nickle Oldsmobile block or find a NASCAR block with the small mains and small bore.
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Old 06-27-2010, 06:05 PM   #6
JRyan
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

Speaking of chassis flex; If Daran's flexible flyer wasn't having block problems with the way that thing twisted, nobody should. We haven't had any problems with the 307 blocks in any stockers either, but it might be that Alan has a problem peculiar to his car, or just bad luck. In any case, I know the sleeved 350 blocks work very well for us.

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Old 06-27-2010, 10:00 PM   #7
Alan Warman
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

Well if I did not have bad luck, I would not have any luck at all. I don't think its chassis flex but I could be wrong. Here is a couple of things I noticed when tearing it down. The solid mount's are touching the frame. And the balancer I use is the stock solid cast hub. No rubber at all
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Old 06-27-2010, 10:51 PM   #8
Alan Roehrich
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

The balancer is the worst problem by far. I strongly suggest an ATI Super Damper.
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:47 AM   #9
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Default Re: Sleeveing a block

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Warman View Post
Well if I did not have bad luck, I would not have any luck at all. I don't think its chassis flex but I could be wrong. Here is a couple of things I noticed when tearing it down. The solid mount's are touching the frame. And the balancer I use is the stock solid cast hub. No rubber at all
You found the problem...like Alan said, get rid of the balancer and use either an ATI or BHJ.
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