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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 585
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Also be very sure to use the factory cup shaped retainer (or equivalent) at the back of the master cylinder which fits into a groove around the perimeter of the hole, and can't go through the firewall. It retains the pushrod positively. See the thread on Ken Etter.
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#2 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Murfreesboro TN
Posts: 5,132
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If I were putting disc brakes on one end, it would be the front, not the rear.
We used to use the early S-10 quick take up aluminum master cylinder very successfully. You have to have the ability to put metric fittings on your lines, or find the correct adapters. I used a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. By all means, make sure to positively retain the brake pedal to master cylinder pushrod. Do not run it with excessive slack trying to reduce drag, it doesn't really help, and it will only cause an accident later. I suggest a nylock style jam nut on the adjuster.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PORT ST JOHN FLORIDA
Posts: 226
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I use the chrysler style alum m/c with the plastic reservoir on my 71'.had to drill mounting holes larger and it slid onto the factory studs and i used my factory pushrod
scott fifield |
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