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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Parker, CO.
Posts: 728
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If the tire shops does not pan out, try your local scrap metal yard or a
battery manufacture.
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Phil Saran Parker, Colorado |
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#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: columbia TN
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I had a local sporting goods store that sells guns order my #10 lead shot, was cheaper than a gun shore that I checked, but still very expensive. If you get these, be careful when you handle it, do not breath the dust while you are pouring them into the bars and wash hands afterwards.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Saint John NB Canada
Posts: 561
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A friend did the wheel weight thing. He melted the weights down and seperated the steel clips then poured the molten lead into steel 2x3 tubing. Stinkin' things are HEAVY too !!!
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Parker, CO.
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Along time ago (1980's) I made my own lead weights for the
weight box. Got scrap lead from my brother-in-law (my former boss @ scrap metal yard) and melted it in a cast iron frying pan over a propane camp stove and poured into molds I had made. Probably not the safest way to do it in hinsight.
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Phil Saran Parker, Colorado |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
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I went to one of my lift truck battery suppliers and they have a heater for lead that they use in the making and repairing of batteries. They filled a bar up for me. Much safer.
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You don't know what you don't know yet. |
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#6 |
VIP Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shelby, NC
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I buy buckets full of weight from a local tire store for $25.00. I cut the ends of the longer weights and drop them into square tubing with a cap welded on one end. I then use a torch to heat the tube. As the weights melt I drop more in until the bar is full. Finally I weld another cap on the top to enclose the lead.
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#7 |
Junior Member
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we have purchased lead from a roofing company...they use it for flashing. melts easy and makes good bars.
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Big wheelies are for show!! Go fast or go home!!! |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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I've thought about using zinc anodes for boat hulls. They come in plates and various sizes. Here's a sample:
http://www.zincboatanodes.com/hull-z...te-anodes.html
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Mopar 2 Ya! |
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#9 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Dunnellon,FL
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I used to get the wheel weights, melt them down, pull the metal out, pour them into a Chevy small block valve cover and inset 5/8th's bolts in them, once cooled you just pry them out of the valve cover and the are ready to bolt anywhere using the threaded ends of the exposed bolt. JimR
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Jim Rountree |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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The last time I made up lead for my car, I bought some lead plate from a local metal salvager. I called around and happened on a guy who happened to have a ton of excess new lead 1" thick plate. He even sawed it to size on his plate saw for me, and delivered it.
I've dealt with weight tubes and lead shot, after one spill I didn't want to go with shot again. Depending on how much you need, 1018 steel plate is a cheap, easy to get option, especially if you live away from an industrial area... and if you care about toxic, it's pretty inert, easy to cut up into usable chunks. Unlike depleted uranium counterweights used in some aircraft, we don't have the most dense metal available to fit in some confined space ![]() I imagine more and more racers will be getting away from lead all together. Salvaged steel plate can often be had for less than 25cents/pound and weighs 70% of lead (lead is .4 lbs/cu inch, steel is .284 lbs/cu inch) I'm not sure where us civilians would get depleted uranium, but at a dense .7lbs/cu inch, it's no wonder the the stuff has found its way onto the battlefield |
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