9 on 10

Myron Piatek · 06-22-2011, 07:01 PM

The primary difference between bias ply and radial slicks is that typically a radial will work better with a little more air pressure. But the range for either can be 10 lbs or more.
I run 21 lbs in my Hoosier radials, but have heard numbers as low as 14 and as high as 24+ for both styles. Radials are faster, but more sensitive to track conditions and can spin sooner and more than bias ply.

Pick a "high teen" pressure and adjust it based on contact patch on the track, tire surface and 60' times. Too many variables to be very specific. Tire may move a little until it "settles in" and you can watch it with a shoe polish spot across from the valve stem. Swapping them from side-to-side will keep it close to where it was balanced at. If the movement is considerable and constant, especially if using lower pressures, it may be necessary to screw the beads. Never run tubes without securing the beads first.

06-22-2011, 07:01 PM	#3
Myron Piatek VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Florida Posts: 1,542 Likes: 34 Liked 138 Times in 51 Posts	Re: 9 on 10 The primary difference between bias ply and radial slicks is that typically a radial will work better with a little more air pressure. But the range for either can be 10 lbs or more. I run 21 lbs in my Hoosier radials, but have heard numbers as low as 14 and as high as 24+ for both styles. Radials are faster, but more sensitive to track conditions and can spin sooner and more than bias ply. Pick a "high teen" pressure and adjust it based on contact patch on the track, tire surface and 60' times. Too many variables to be very specific. Tire may move a little until it "settles in" and you can watch it with a shoe polish spot across from the valve stem. Swapping them from side-to-side will keep it close to where it was balanced at. If the movement is considerable and constant, especially if using lower pressures, it may be necessary to screw the beads. Never run tubes without securing the beads first.