SBC block filling ?

nolongerracing · 09-23-2011, 07:59 PM

I hope your not going to fill a "ready to assemble" block.

rod · 09-23-2011, 11:49 PM

no, this block is still dirty. nothing done yet. however i do know a local guy who had his MoPar block all done and then filled it. sure messed up the cyl. walls.
=============================
i do like the idea of changing the placement of the drain. i thought about that. i wonder if i could braze a 1/2" to 3/8" pipe bushing on the side. the block is not of sufficient thickness to get more than one thread.
thoughts on this?
rod in AZ

Reed Granrt · 09-24-2011, 09:51 AM

I am very sure that I did not say this, but You may want to consider rust stripping the block inside. If you pour the block with the rust layer that is there, you will set up 2 problems 1: the rust acts as a blockage to heat transfer out of the cylinders 2: You will have poor adhesion by the block filler. Make sure you de-acid with a acid that does not attack the base met. Only use acid that attacks the rust oxide. If you do not find out what that is, PM me and I can tell you (but I didn't tell you)
reed

Dwight Southerland · 09-25-2011, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reed Granrt

I am very sure that I did not say this, but You may want to consider rust stripping the block inside. If you pour the block with the rust layer that is there, you will set up 2 problems 1: the rust acts as a blockage to heat transfer out of the cylinders 2: You will have poor adhesion by the block filler. Make sure you de-acid with a acid that does not attack the base met. Only use acid that attacks the rust oxide. If you do not find out what that is, PM me and I can tell you (but I didn't tell you)
reed

Muriatic acid. Wash well and neutralize after.

Mark Yacavone · 09-25-2011, 04:07 PM

I've been reminded that the SBC w/p holes are towards the center of the block.
Even if your fill at an angle ,it'll still leave some water there.
Actually, I was picturing my 2300 4 cyl. when I made that comment...No drain plug required.

Reed Granrt · 09-25-2011, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

Muriatic acid. Wash well and neutralize after.

Nope, Muriatic acid will attack the base metal (cast iron). The longer it is in contact with the cast iron, the more it will remove
reed

Dwight Southerland · 09-26-2011, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reed Granrt

Nope, Muriatic acid will attack the base metal (cast iron). The longer it is in contact with the cast iron, the more it will remove
reed

And the problem is . . . ? Been doing it for years with no problems. You can treat the block, rinse it out and neuetralize it with a couple of baths of strong baking soda solution in thirty minutes and be done. If you are using a concrete-based filler, you can pour it immediately. I have used Por-Rok and Rockite with great success. Phosphoric acid, Rust-Away and similar neutralizers take too long, will not clean nooks and cranies, and require scrubbing the scale off the parent metal, which is impossible to do in the water jackets of a block. If you don't get the scale out, there is a protective boundary layer that prevents the filler from adhering to the block and concrete-based fillers will eventually erode out.

We tried muriatic to "enhance" some cylinder head dimensions once, but it took twenty gallons, seven days and constant applied heat to remove .100". Somehow, that rate of "attack" on the base metal does not concern me.

Reed Granrt · 09-26-2011, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

And the problem is . . . ? Been doing it for years with no problems. You can treat the block, rinse it out and neuetralize it with a couple of baths of strong baking soda solution in thirty minutes and be done. If you are using a concrete-based filler, you can pour it immediately. I have used Por-Rok and Rockite with great success. Phosphoric acid, Rust-Away and similar neutralizers take too long, will not clean nooks and cranies, and require scrubbing the scale off the parent metal, which is impossible to do in the water jackets of a block. If you don't get the scale out, there is a protective boundary layer that prevents the filler from adhering to the block and concrete-based fillers will eventually erode out.

We tried muriatic to "enhance" some cylinder head dimensions once, but it took twenty gallons, seven days and constant applied heat to remove .100". Somehow, that rate of "attack" on the base metal does not concern me.

Dwight
It is not a problem for me. If you want to "enhance" it even more , use hydrochloric. You can do that in a matter of minutes. Oh, have you eaten into a gas pocket around the cylinder yet. And yes, using muriactic for years is what I have done, but like many other things, I have learned better tech does exist (for me). Heck you can even soak it in Pepsi, Molasses, sorghum or what ever your medicine. All will work and safer. Your decision.
reed

dwydendorf · 09-27-2011, 04:33 PM

When you drill into the side of the block for the water drain be sure to locate it away from the center of the cylinder and as close to the intersection of two cylinders as possible. Also be sure not to locate it under any head bolts. This will give you more room to use a pipe tap to thread your drain. If necessary you can cut off a tap with an abrasive cut off wheel and grind a new lead on the tap.

09-23-2011, 07:59 PM	#1
nolongerracing Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 173 Likes: 2 Liked 72 Times in 27 Posts	Re: SBC block filling ? I hope your not going to fill a "ready to assemble" block.

09-23-2011, 11:49 PM	#2
rod Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kingman, NW AZ. in the middle of the longest stretch of Route 66 Posts: 315 Likes: 0 Liked 20 Times in 15 Posts	Re: SBC block filling ? no, this block is still dirty. nothing done yet. however i do know a local guy who had his MoPar block all done and then filled it. sure messed up the cyl. walls. ============================= i do like the idea of changing the placement of the drain. i thought about that. i wonder if i could braze a 1/2" to 3/8" pipe bushing on the side. the block is not of sufficient thickness to get more than one thread. thoughts on this? rod in AZ

09-24-2011, 09:51 AM	#3
Reed Granrt Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Murfreesboro, Tn Posts: 149 Likes: 0 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: SBC block filling ? I am very sure that I did not say this, but You may want to consider rust stripping the block inside. If you pour the block with the rust layer that is there, you will set up 2 problems 1: the rust acts as a blockage to heat transfer out of the cylinders 2: You will have poor adhesion by the block filler. Make sure you de-acid with a acid that does not attack the base met. Only use acid that attacks the rust oxide. If you do not find out what that is, PM me and I can tell you (but I didn't tell you) reed

09-25-2011, 04:07 PM	#5
Mark Yacavone Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Miles From Nowhere Posts: 7,818 Likes: 2,909 Liked 5,126 Times in 1,954 Posts	Re: SBC block filling ? I've been reminded that the SBC w/p holes are towards the center of the block. Even if your fill at an angle ,it'll still leave some water there. Actually, I was picturing my 2300 4 cyl. when I made that comment...No drain plug required. __________________ "We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers

09-27-2011, 04:33 PM	#9
dwydendorf Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: michigan Posts: 162 Likes: 251 Liked 19 Times in 7 Posts	Re: SBC block filling ? When you drill into the side of the block for the water drain be sure to locate it away from the center of the cylinder and as close to the intersection of two cylinders as possible. Also be sure not to locate it under any head bolts. This will give you more room to use a pipe tap to thread your drain. If necessary you can cut off a tap with an abrasive cut off wheel and grind a new lead on the tap. __________________ ss/gt 93 t-bird