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#1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Texarkana Ark/TX
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Art,
What you might need is a step up in your electrical system. There are a few systems available. I would give Pat Collins a call @ http://www.techwestracing.com/ 704-995-4286 I got a well known Comp team hooked up with him and he helped their program. I can tell you first hand that his Max Power system made more power on a dyno I am associated with than just a good 12 volt battery with a charger attached. That was with a MSD 7 system and the appropriate coil. Listen to him when he talks about coils. Also, I agree with Jim about the correct sizing of the fuel system. The bigger is better way is similar to what I call the "Shotgun Way" Throw enough lead at anything and you will eventually hit it. You need big enough, but too big has some problems like air in the system and heat soak. Plus a few other issues.
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Adger Smith (Former SS) Last edited by Adger Smith; 10-27-2011 at 02:07 PM. Reason: sp & addition |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sand Springs, OK
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The voltage compensation table is to correct injector pulse width, but that has much more effect at lower RPM, not so much at higher RPM. Adjust that table at one RPM and you won't see the same A/F change at all RPM. More low, less up high. The correct way to address it is upgrading the electrical system to stabalize the voltage. EFI cars, IMHO, should have 2 16 volt batteries or an alternator if 12 volts. Low voltage will certainly lean an EFI car because the injectors open slower. I had two 12 volt batteries with an alternator in mine, everything was fine until it suddenly began to kick alternator belts off. I could kiss about .05 worth of ET goodbye when it did that.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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Why not run a separate battery just for the engine controls?
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Mike Pearson 2485 SS |
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