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#1 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
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![]() Quote:
The Nodular cases were double ribbed and some (not all) will have an N in the center over the pinion. You have to do some research on the web and get the part numbers so you"ll know if one that you are interested in is nodular or not. Some had the N in the center but the caps did not meaning that it had non nodular caps. Try to find one that you know is nodular and the caps also have the small n on them. You might look into an aftermarket case on ebay cause the factory N casess are sometimes priced higher than an aftermarket case. George |
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#2 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Aylmer Quebec, Canada
Posts: 1,087
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Just bring it over to Richard's and hell weld you a brace.lol Claude
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#3 |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 852
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Early 1964 T-Bolt cases were nodular without the N and had nodular cap without a small n on each cap most mid year till about 1978 had nodular caps toward the end of production early 1980 when the Flat Rock Casting Plant closed they regular gray Iron.
Last edited by BlueOval Ralph; 02-16-2012 at 03:21 PM. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 585
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HRW is reportedly the strongest nodular case, at $329 iirc it is cheap insurance. I got one from Quick Performance several years ago.
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#5 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 6
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The post concerning WAR cases is right on. If you aren't sure you have a nodular case I'd pass on it and get something aftermarket. |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kingman, NW AZ. in the middle of the longest stretch of Route 66
Posts: 315
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also note this. some cases use a 3.06 od side bearing and some use 2.89 od side bearings. i figure its a toss up. 289 have a thicker cap witha smaller bearing and vise versa.. either cap will use the 31 spline axle. with the correct side bearing. i recommend taping the main bolt holes as deep as you can and using either studs or as long a grade 8 bolt as you can [even to cutting an 8 to length. you should also have the bolt head seats spot milled to be square. the factory seats are not real good and the factory cap bolts are way short. tap the pinon support bolts as deep as you can and use longer grade 8 bolts with grade 8 washers there also. the cast iron Daytona support is the first best step. next is the bigger bearing supports. and there are several to go with choice wise. some use a big tapper roller some use a ball bearing, do some checking on your own as to what you want. but use something other than the factory, unless you are bucks down.
rod in AZ |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 971
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thank you everyone for your help. what a wealth of knowledge on this site!
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